Category: Holiday Blogs

Holidays

West Coast USA – Day 16

If yesterday was “strange”, todays was frustrating, yet humbling.

So, if “Plan A” was to stay at Yosemite Half Dome Lodge for two nights then travel the 180-or so miles to Monterey, then its fair to say, that didn’t work out.

  • Plan ‘B’: Drive over Tioga Pass, stay at Yosemite Half Dome Lodge for one night then travel the 180-or so miles to Monterey for an extra night
    Result: Yosemite Closed
  • Plan ‘C’: Drive over Tioga Pass, through Yosemite and stay beyond the park for one night before travelling to Monterey
    Result: Tioga Pass Closed
  • Plan ‘D’: Drive over the Sonora Pass (Highway 108) and stay beyond the park for one night before travelling to Monterey
    Result: Sonora Pass Closed
  • Plan ‘E’: Drive over the Sonora Pass (Highway 108) and stay in Monterey for an extra two nights
    Result: Sonora Pass Closed

So we went with Plan ‘F’. And what a crappy plan that was. With no other choice left, 8 1/2 hours and around 375 miles of driving later, we arrived at the Hyatt Recency Resort in Monterey. I am knackered.

I woke in time to subscribe to a free 7-say trial of ESPN+, which happened to be showing the Charity Shield game between Chelsea and Man City. Once we had picked up the silverware (2-0, Aguero for both), Jane and Charlie were up and about.

Although we got up at a half reasonable time, it was only to realise we were all feeling a touch of altitude sickness, something Jane and I experienced before.

Charlie however wasn’t expecting this and his light-headedness and queasiness meant he thought he needed to chunder. This led to a delay in (another very basic) breakfast and checking out.

We filled up with more exorbitantly priced fuel, to the tune of $100 for just less than a tank full, at exactly 10am, according to our receipt. When we set off, we were still on for Plan ‘E’ & the Sonora Pass.

As we drove up the 395 out of a still very hazy and smokey Mammoth, we wanted to quickly call in at Mono Lake, to show Charlie this massive, weird expanse of high-saline water, that has towers of salt growing out of it.

It also has a ridiculous amount of flies that gather in huge swarms on the ground, and when they move, they create their own black/grey cloud.

Just as we turned off to park at Mono, there was a Matrix sign above the road that read:

120 – Closed
108 – Closed
Seek travel advice

We know about 120, the Tioga. We didn’t know about 108, the Sonora Pass. Our hearts sank. We had got our heads around a 6 1/2 hour day, broken by a stop at the Goldrush Town of Columbia. What the hell does this mean to our journey, we wondered?

Google, TomTom and Waze concurred, and suggested that our only option of getting to Monterey at anything like a reasonable time tonight was to go over the Carson Pass, further north, and settle for an additional 2 hours in the car.

So from the 395, we took a dubious-looking left onto Highway 89, the Robert M Jackson Memorial Highway & then Highway 88, through the Carson Pass and El Dorado Forest.

As the driver, this was spectacular, but not appreciated. There are very steep inclines, descents, twists, turns and switchbacks, combined with narrow roads, and wide oncoming traffic. By the time we came out onto “normal” roads my eyes were popping out.

At just over half way, we stopped at the Subway in Lockeford, (opposite the Curl Up and Dye hair salon) on Main Street, and got a late “lunch”. To be honest the rest of the journey was uneventful and, as per yesterday, somewhat dull. Through Jackson, in to and then out of Stockton. Then the I5 down to Monterey, and our first glimpse of the Pacific.

It may have been uneventful and dull, but what was incredible, and humbling is that..well, hang on, let me give some scale first.

Imaging a clock face that is as wide as England from Lake District to Northumberland. Now imaging driving from the 3 o’clock position, around the edge of the clock face, anticlockwise. Continue around the clock face to around 7 o’clock. That’s our journey today.

But now think of this, the centre of the clock is where the fires are focused. Something in the region of approximately 80+ miles to our left throughout our drive. And here’s the humbling bit – with the exception of  the last 30/40 miles, we were never out of sight of the smoke. From Manchester, up through the whole of the better parts of England (I’m biased), to, say, Whitehaven and across to Sunderland, for example, would be smoke-affected.

As I write this, the Ferguson fire has burned 89,633 acres and taken the lives of two of the 2,500+ Firefighters, working to contain this monster. And this isn’t the only, or even the worst. There is a huge fire raging (140+mph “fire tornados”) in Redding, to the north of San Francisco.

In fact, this morning at breakfast in Mammoth, we were sat opposite to lady hikers, who were camped up near the summit last night until 11pm, when they were overcome with ash and smoke, and ended up packing camp, and descending in the dark, to book in to the hotel. They were exhausted. And very lucky.

The scale and ferocity of these fires in hard to contextualise. But the bravery and hard work being carried out by the Firefighters isn’t.

So, despite being knackered and feeling we just wasted two valuable days holiday, I’m not going to dwell on our minor inconvenience.

Because of how we’ve ended up here, we have three separate room bookings at three separate rates and room types. On arriving and checking-in with Robert S, I explained as much to him, the reasons behind it, and how it would be really great if we could have one room for the three nights, rather than have to keep decamping.

His first move was to take us to the lounge, settle us on nice chairs and tell the bar staff to look after us, “no charge”. He worked through the bookings and came back with three alternatives, the best one being a larger room, ground floor, with patio, overlooking the pool and games area, and with additional complementary breakfasts, which here are a few bob each per day ($20-30/head). I don’t care if that meant there was enough “fat” in our booking to cover that anyway, but even if it did, the way in which we have been treated, has been exceptional.

The room is fantastic, the facilities are well and truly top of the line (and you may be aware, through my job, I’ve been front of house and back of house at many, many very nice hotels, along with some not-so-nice ones as well).

A beer ( very dark Amber, that was full-on molasses!), a phenomenally good clam chowder and some ludicrously hot chilli nachos later, and we’re back at the room, crashing out for the night!

I think we need a relaxing day tomorrow! With very little driving!

Night, all!

West Coast USA – Day 15

A really strange day today. We are now at Mammoth Lakes, where we had intended to get the chair-lifts up to the top, so we could admire the views and also say we went from 282ft below sea level to 11,030ft above, within 4 hours of driving.

But we haven’t done the chair-lifts. We’ll have to settle for 9,260ft above sea level!

Today is a day of “n’ts”. We didn’t see the USAF topgunning their way down Rainbow Canyon. We drove almost 200 miles and haven’t had to make more than 4 turns. We didn’t get to enjoy the views beyond Lone Pine, or into Mammoth, and we aren’t now going to stay at, or pass through Yosemite.

The fires have spread. There are fires near here in Mammoth (we’re not in any danger, mind), and the Yosemite fires have extended into the Valley, so they have therefore had to close the Park and all of the roads in and out to the west. This means we are on the fall-back plan of our fall-back plan. With no alternative but to go “over the top” via the 108 and skip north of the Tioga Pass, this means that we needed to find accommodation somewhere between here and Monterey, which is now a 7 hour drive away.

Bugger it! Rather than stay a day somewhere unplanned and unknown just to break a journey up, we have all decided to book yet another night in our fancy hotel in Monterey (3, now), and just smash the drive in a one-er. Well, I’m sure we may call in to a few beauty spots through Stanislaus National Forest, or in the preserved 49’er “goldrush” town of Columbia, California.

So last night, after posting the blog, and as Jane & Charlie settled down for the night, I grabbed my camera & tripod (still on its last three legs, held together with hair bands), and went out onto the golf course, dodging the sprinklers as I went. Which is a lot harder that you may think, given that, save for the light from the bedrooms, its almost pitch black. These are some of the darkest skies on the planet.  Almost no light pollution at the Ranch and none, if you’re brave enough to venture out into the vast, desert space.

Which the chap from Southampton that I got chatting to (another night sky photographer) had done. However, he admitted he didn’t last long. He’d parked up, and used his phone to pick a route through the rattlesnakes, scorpions and black widow spiders (did I mention those before?), into the scrub. Settling down, after setting up his (very stable) tripod that wasn’t on its last three legs, and his ultra-fast, ultra-wide angle lens, he said he felt “watched”. He then heard movement, which made him turn, only to end up looking at a pack of Coyote, who were presumably wondering what ISO setting he was proposing to use.

Due to his lens, his “proof” photo was a pointless exercise, but I’m convinced this happened. Partly because, I’m also convinced that when I was trying to take those pre-dawn photos, out of the corner of my eye, I saw a large dog-like thing, run across the golf course. They are around, that’s for sure.

We chatted about the footy (he was up until recently a S’hampton season ticket holder), and how Raheem Sterlings late winner for Manchester City made it an outstanding game. We chatted about the photography, and how much he learned on a specialist start photography course. The trick is to set your ISO up at 6400+, and keep shutter speeds to <30secs, if you’re interested. We also chatted about our respective holidays and how he was having to sneak out to take his photos, whilst his offspring just moaned about how crap the wifi is and that YouTube is just “soooo laggy!”. Sounds familiar!

A reasonable start for us this morning, and we were packed, out of the room, and checked out of our accommodation well before 9:30am. After a debate, we decided to give the canteen another go. We chose well, ordering bagels with Philadelphia, and I had toast and a portion of scrambled egg. No grease, half the price (not quite), job done!

We then began the eeriest of journeys. The 204-mile journey has three directions on TomTom Drive:

  1. Drive 103 miles down Route 190
  1. Turn Right onto the US-395 and drive for 98 miles
  1. Turn off and take CA-203 along Main Street for 3 miles. You have reached your destination!

Despite me filling up our gas-guzzler at the fateful Vegas Wallmart, we only had a half tank, so needed to be careful with refuelling. Not so easy when they’re 70+ miles apart.

On the way in to Death Valley, regular 87ron unleaded was just under $3/gallon. At Furnace Creek, it was just short of $5. I pressed on in the vain hope that I could make Lone Pine and that it would be cheaper. Wrong on both counts. We ended up doing a $40 “splash and dash” at Panamint, at $4,90/gal.

The drive so far had been…well, dull tbh. It was hazy, so the views weren’t so good, and it was pretty dull driving.

Until we dropped onto the downhill part leading to the Panamint Dry Lake crossing. We stopped and got out, despite the heat.

It was actually one of our highlights. Miles and miles and miles in every direction and for about 10 minutes, it was just us three.

What a place! With more time, this would be a stunning place to take a sunrise or sunset photo, and I bet the astro stuff would be pretty funky as well!

Onwards and upwards, literally. Even getting out of Death Valley, you jump to over 4,000ft.

Sadly, Maverick and Goose weren’t flying today, so we pressed on. Having passed through Lone Pine, the journey got more “eerie”, with the haze now taking on a “browny” tinge. It was smoke.

And that sums up the remaining 150 or so miles. Smoke-obscured views.

Entering Mammoth 2 hours before check-in, we drove up the mountain, didn’t do the ski-lift, and drove part-way down and across to Mammoth Lakes, where we stopped to get out and admire the view. We didn’t do that either! This time yesterday, we were in 54°C heat. It was now 19°C and windy. We all changed into warmer clothes!

The light, the weather, the air. All very screwed up!

We checked in to the Shilo Inn, which is pricey for what it is, but you’re paying to be in one of the best outdoor adrenalin-junkie playgrounds, with ski-lifts everywhere being used to ferry full-suspension downhill mountain bikes and their brave pilots up to the top. Where they then saddle up and then descend the “Kamikaze” downhill trail. Would love to have a go, one day!

Now with internet, we checked the latest on Yosemite, and as we had anticipated, it was buggered. No way to get in to the valley from east or west. I must be honest and say that despite acknowledging that it is an ever-changing situation, the communication from Yosemite Accommodation has been diabolical. As in non-existent.

I phoned them to check the official score (even having already booked that extra, extra night in Monterey). I explained we had previously cancelled the second of two nights, and that we were checking about tomorrow. She checked my booking reference, and then told me that the first night had been automatically cancelled due to the fire. Nice, but no one had told me that. After prodding, she did confirm that a refund would be issued in full but couldn’t say when. More paperwork to check & cross reference when we get home!

Sorted, of sorts, we then headed out for something to eat. Jane was “starving” and fancied a well-recommended Mexican. Robertos Café was a short walk from the hotel. During which, I became short of breath and began coughing. This because the air has ash in it. You can see it falling and swirling in the pretty strong wind.

A “mammoth” portion for each of us, in between Pokemoning(!) and a view of the sun, that was pre-apocalyptic, before the quick walk back to the hotel.

It really is quite sad, seeing Mammoth in such weather – it must be really affecting the hiking, trailing, biking & climbing scene here.

A long day tomorrow, but all in a good cause! Disappointed we’re not going to see Yosemite again, of course, but thrilled to have three days in and around Monterey.

An early night for us all tonight!

Catch you tomorrow!

West Coast USA – Day 14

I woke in plenty of time for the 5:54am dawn! A good two hours early to be precise! Hacks me off, my sleep pattern.

Thing is I know it won’t help when I get home and have just half a day before setting off to work for another week.

I got the camera and tripod and tiptoed our onto the balcony. Jeezus! It’s 4am and still 38°C! And that was whilst it was “blowin’ a hoolie”! No idea what it would have been if the air was still.

Tbh, it was hard work sitting there in that heat. Especially when you’re eyes told you you should be cold. Very odd! So odd I came back inside for a while!

When the sky started to change colour, I began taking some photos, but being frank, the view, and the sky weren’t a patch on somewhere like the Grand Canyon – there’s a lot of haze here, scattering light. This is reflected in my “average” photos.

I tried again as the sun just started over the mountain tops, but again, not going to make it into the album, probably.

I actually ended up going back to bed and did manage to doze for an hour, before relenting, getting up and prepping for the day (the usual – wash the water bottles/bidons, full with ice water, pack the cool bag, take to car, with camera bags).

By the time sleepyhead Charlie was out of his pit, and we got to the canteen, breakfast was had at just after 10am. And it wasn’t great, either.

Charlie managed to pour the maple syrup down himself, his phone and his shorts. Some did go on the 3 pancakes and bacon, of which he ate half a pancake. Jane had the “breakfast barm” but that turned out to be quite greasy and uninspiring, as was my scrambled egg, sausage “links”, and hash browns. Again fairly swimming in oil.

Oh well, we live and learn! Just a pity that with drinks it was over $50. Maybe Denny’s isn’t so bad after all!

Finally rounded everyone up, and loaded the car, and set off to the visitor centre, just down the road.

Nicely laid out, just a pity we couldn’t get near the tourist thermometer, due to a coach that had just pulled in and deposited 50’ish French folk.

115°C at 11am. May be a warm one today. We decided we’d head north to Ubehebe Crater, a massive caldera, crests by a steam build-up that led to a massive explosion around 2000 years ago. To give you an idea of scale, Ubehebe (Oooh-bee-hee-bee. Go on say it. Makes you smile, doesn’t it!), was a 54 mile drive north. With little else between, that’s a fair commitment for another big hole.

Pretty much all of the last 25 miles were barren, in a really amazing way. Nothing. Until you really look. Then there are little pockets of differing geology. Different colours, plants, textures. It’s really more beautiful in a twisted sort of way, than you may wish to credit it with.

The last 15 miles we’re on a dead end road. Very wide, very flat, acres of flat land to each side of the tarmac. I had cruise on at the desperately low 35mph (ugh). Charlie reckoned it looked so easy he could get us there.

These carefully constructed, very realistic photos, make it look like Charlie drove the big truck the last 5 miles unaided. He was really good! I think all of those computer games have made it easier for him to (pretend) drive, even if it was an auto transmission.

We arrived at Ubehebe and got out of the car. Needless to say, some berk with 20 other potential spaces chose the one next to ours and parked too close. WTF! Is it that same cock-womble from our last Volcano Crater?

When we got out, it was like disembarking a long-haul airline from the rear steps – when the pilot had forgotten to turn off the Rolls Royce RB211 turbofan engines. It was blowing jet-hot air at us, at a right force!

Great view, although way too hot to attempt the hilly, mile long hike through cinders. Just touristy photos, this time! They’ve done the viewing area up (like at Dante’s View) in the intervening years since we came last. Not a massive surprise. But definitely better, and with an emphasis on accessibility as well.

Back down the road for the return 50’ish miles, and Charlie had another (pretend) drive for the next 5 miles. Oh, how we laughed at his (pretend) right turn after a “Yield” sign, and inability to comprehend how much you need to rotate a steering wheel, compared to a bit of “full right stick” on an XBox controller.

Enough of this pretend stuff, we need to make up ground. I took control. “You have control”, said Charlie. “I have control”, said I. Taught him well!

We took a right not far from the Ranch and headed towards Stovepipe Wells. We were overtaken by two cars in ”stealth” mode. Basically, it was two next-year model BMW X5s being tested I presume, in a camouflage wrap, made up of Matt black and wiggly white stripes that meant it was tricky to discern body lines.

We stopped at Mesquite Sand Dunes. Without wishing to repeat myself, jeez, it’s hot! Car temp gauge is now showing 49°C. That’s pretty warm to be frolicking around in sand dunes. So hot in fact that Janes IPhone said enough is enough and flicked the overheat sign on!

Must point out that heading into the scrub, before the dunes, we all did as the notices say – “don’t put your feet where you can’t see them, due to rattlesnakes, scorpions and Black Widow spiders”. Easy to follow. No deviations!

None of us died of the heat or fatal poisoning, and made it back to the car.

We then drove the short trip to Stovepipe Wells, piled into the gift shop/general store and bought a snacks lunch. I also bought a mix of 6-bottles of Ale, which cost only fractionally more than a pint at the Ranch.

We got chatting to a lovely older couple from Oxfordshire who were on their honeymoon. Like us, they are supposed to be off to Yosemite arriving Sunday. It’s now really not looking good as they’ve closed part of the 120, which means you can’t drive east to west, and, frustratingly, they are being very late with their calls on whether there is any accommodation “in Park”. We all think we won’t get there now, and will end up having to do some very last minute reworking of itineraries.

Tbh, I think Yosemite accommodation are at fault here. They should be putting us first rather than trying to make sure they lose as little revenue as possible. The balance just isn’t quite right, IMHO.

We bid farewell, got back in our 4-wheel furnace, and drove off towards todays final stops. The biggies. The showcase “money shot” views – Artists Drive, The Devils Golf Course, and the lowest and likely hottest part of the park, Badwater.

Devils Golf Course came first, and although Charlie was mithered by needing a wee desperately, it’s a real sight to behold. That said, I reckon my mate Alan, would still go around this with his usual cussing, and end up with a similar scorecard.

Driving away, we hit our own blinder! Photo to prove, the temp hit 54°C (127°CF), just 3°C off the world record, I think. That’s quite warm! It must have been, Jane took her Cardy off…

Next was Badwater. At 282ft below sea level it was still a balmy 51°C at the lowest point in the northern hemisphere. However, before venturing onto the salt flats, I had a more pressing engagement. (No photos, you’ll be glad to hear).

Thankfully, the “Long Drop” was in service and accessible. Although taking a dump into a hole in the ground isn’t blog material per se, it is worth a mention, given where we were. If you’ve not had the misfortune, all I can say is I was in and out quicker than Jack Flash himself. No need to linger and read a newspaper.

Off to the salt flats. For about 5 minutes. Because that’s all we could stand. Our eyelids were burning. Our throats parched within seconds. Every pore was forcibly ejecting sweat and max pressure. What a place this is!

A final sojourn through the very scenic Artists Drive, and a quick wave to R2D2 and the Jawa that zapped and then stole him from here in the original (1977) Star Wars Ep III – A New Hope.

Back to the Ranch, tea in the canteen, at which we played safe and went salad and soup, after the breakfast, and then bed!

Hoping to drive out via one of the valleys where the “The United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, more popularly known as Topgun, teaches fighter and strike tactics and techniques to selected naval aviators and naval flight officers”.

Guess what will be on tomorrow’s playlist! I feel the need, the need for speed!

“Hey Goose! Take me to bed or lose me forever.”

“Show me the way home, honey.”

😉

West Coast USA – Day 13 (luck wasn’t on our side)

A lie in at last! I woke at around 5:30am and dozed until 6am. Not bad for me, that!

Very quietly, I tidied the room, packed up the camera/tech rucksack, had a shower and packed my bag. Washed out all the bidons, and the large “souvenir Mirage” drink cups, packed the (not-so) coolbag and hauled all of the above to the car.

With a fair bit of trepidation, I pressed the tailgate button, wondering if anything would happen. Thankfully, the tailgate lifted, and I threw all the bags in.

A quick check that the car started (it did), and a 5 minutes rev of the engine without the aircon, lights, or “entertainment system”, before locking up and heading back to the room.

Jane was up, and delighted that the dodgy GPS meant that without leaving her pit, her Pokemon avatar had walked about half a mile. Not sure what that means, but she was happy, so that’s fine by me.

Now the grotty bit, the long walk through the casino, lobby, walkway, lift and car park, to ditch the remaining bags in the car, before checking out of the hotel, and checking in to Denny’s for one last time (I hope – I’m a tad “Dennied Out”).

After another monster breakfast, that included about 2 litres of Diet Coke, as well as poached eggs on muffins with hash browns, we got back to the car to start our next adventure.

It’s roughly a 3-hour drive from the Mirage to what is now known as the “Oasis at Furnace Creek”, which will be the last time I refer to it as that. It will always be Furnace Creek Ranch to us, it’s name when Jane and I were last there. Which is coincidentally the last time I razor-shaved my bonce (head).

Having set up the sat nav to route us th Furnace Creek via the Extra-Terrestrial Highway, we remembered we needed “supplies” (sweets, crisps, cordial, and water), so I plumbed in the Walmart Super Centre and we set off.

Grabbing fuel on the way ($3.12/US Gal), expecting extortionate rates at Death Valley, we got to the Supermarket in good time. So much so, we were all taken in by the clearance “bargains”, walking out with a “Dri-Fit” lightweight T-shirt ($3) for me & two pairs of cotton shorts for Jane (2x $2). My Dad would be proud! He liked a deal, did Cliff.

Another 20minutes further on, I got spooked by the road we were on. Just didn’t seem right.

Bugger! The satnav has dropped the Extra Testicle Highway for the supermarket. I pulled over to replan.

Unfortunately, the geology ‘round here means that basically between here and the Pacific Coast, the plates got squished up into North/South mountain ranges. Going east-west in a car, well basically you can’t. To go via The Alien Cafe (in Paul, the movie) would be an additional 400 miles/5h driving. No thanks. We carried on, although I was fuming with myself!

We got to the Park and turned South to go to Dante’s View, at over 5,400ft up. At the top, you get (yet more panoramic) views of the whole length of Death Valley, with the Panamint Range of Mountains, in the background. It was a balmy 34°C.

Strange to think that just over half an hour away we’ll be down there, and over 5,500ft lower, and therefore below sea level.

After a nice little hike to an overlook, we got back in the car and headed to Zabriskie Point, a huge Borax field, very yellow in colour, but more pressing, a more than balmy 48°C!

You breathe in and it burns your throat. My sunglasses frames were too hot to touch. As was my camera, and GoPro.

Charlie had stayed in the car (still tired, still teenage!), and we know dogs die in hot cars. No one ever mentions pubescent kids. I presume therefore, they don’t?

Well for once, responsibility kicked in and I followed Janes advice and headed back to the car. And Charlie.

He wasn’t a husk, so we set off the 8 minute drive to our accommodation for the next two nights.

It’s undergoing a big refurb and remodel at the moment, so much so, we couldn’t recognise where we stayed last time, albeit 18 years ago.

Checked in, upper floor room, with nice balcony (which is too hot to sit out on). Filled the ice bucket. And went for tea at the cafe.

Even the few hundred yard walk was almost too much to bear, it’s so hot. Good fun all the same, though.

Nachos with chicken and beef all ‘round, with a pint of West Coast IPA for me, quickly followed by a pint of Ballast Point Sculpin. Both nice, although the West Coast seemed pretty feisty!

Back to the room. Jane did some “dobying” and I went out and took some photos of sunset over the Panamint, from our doorstep Golf Course.

And now to bed! Aiming for another sunrise tomorrow (5:54am), so would need to be set up by 4:30am latest. Also aiming for a Milky Way photo tomorrow night, after sunset, so a long day, with lots of driving in the Park.

Hence calling it a night!

Catch you tomorrow!

Cheers!

West Coast USA – Day 12 (sob, over half way)

Phew! What a relief!

Having only gone to bed at midnight, I was up for 3am. Can’t sleep for three reasons:

  1. I don’t sleep, generally
  2. I’m itchy as feck. Think they use bio washing powder here, which doesn’t agree with my delicate, fair skin!
  3. I’m mithered about the car & battery situation (lack of!)

So I spend an hour reading the manual for our car, and how to unlock it manually. Then I read the small print on the hire agreement. We definitely have “24h mechanical breakdown” cover.

Googling their website, although I can’t find a definition of said cover, I do find their description of “Roadside Assistance Protection” which specifically covers key failures, lockouts and jump starts.

Cool. I decide to get up, get dressed and sort this before anyone else is even up. Wandering through the casino however, I’m reminded that this is a 24×7 environment,and some folk sleep less than me!

I get to Aisle 6A on Floor 6 of Self Park, at the Mirage Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada and double check that the emergency key really didn’t work. It didn’t.

I call Alamo Roadside assistance and the lady I spoke to confirmed that it was likely just a battery drop out and she could get someone there within 20 minutes to jump start the car. Fabulous!

“That’ll be a minimum charge of $75 dollars sir. Ok to proceed?”. No, not without a fight, on principle if nothing else. Explaining the 24h breakdown, she rebuffed this. “Yes yo do, sir, but that’s for major stuff. It’s extra to cover the little bits like this”.

Ok. Let’s get on with this and I’ll have to argue the point later. We’ve done nothing wrong. The car battery has probably wilted in this heat, and I wouldn’t blame it. It’s just before 5am and it’s 36deg C!

So, we agreed to disagree and that she would send someone to sort it, and I would argue when I drop off the car.

Less than 25 minutes later a short Hispanic lad turns up in his orange “Pop-A-Lock” van, and he also confirms I’m not being daft, and the emergency key is in a state of emergency, having catastrophically failed to carry out its one job.

He got a small wedge, and slid that into the passenger window rubber. He then got a bigger wedge which created a gap, down which he put a glorified coat hook. In less than a minute, the car was unlocked. Quite scary really!

Now the car was open, up with the bonnet and the portable power pack was connected and another 30 seconds later and I’m in a fully functioning car! Woohoo!

The guy said he felt it was likely that it was a heat-induced drop-out and to run the car for a half hour to get some charge back. His reaction to our next stop being Death Valley didn’t fill me with confidence though.

After he left, I spend the next 45 minutes driving up and down the Strip as the sun rose, charging the battery.

Having parked up again in Aisle 6A on Floor 6 of Self Park, at the Mirage Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada (the lady from Alamo required my location to this exacting standard, so who am I to let those slip), I returned to our room, and eventually nodded back off for an hour.

We finally got out of the room at around 10:45 (Charlie being fast asleep again ‘til around 10am), and headed back to Denny’s for breakfast. Why not, we’re on us hols!

A walk up the North Strip up to the relatively new and stylish Wynn Encore, and the across to what turned out to be another Trafford Centre. (*Shoulders slump*).

Charlie decided to spend his holiday money on another pair of black Nike trainers to go with his other three pairs. Meanwhile I began falling asleep stood up. Absolutely knackered.

We made it back to the room just in time for me to lie down and fall asleep properly. Jane and Charlie ducked out from my snoring and went to the pool for an hour or so.

After the obligatory second shower of the day, we walked down to South Strip, where we had tea at the Planet Hollywood Cafe.

Ribs for Charlie, served on a miniature ‘pub beer garden bench’ (no idea why), two staters for Jane, and a Kobe beef Burger for me. All very nice, and washed down with a pint of “Bad Beat – Bluffing isn’t Weisse”.

Jane, who is “Queen of the Full Fat” insisted we called in and had a look around the Coca Cola store, where a souvenir tee-shirt was purchased. Very fitting.

A long walk back passed the fountains at Bellagio, and we headed back, all now knackered.

Having averaged over 18,000 steps per day over our time in Vegas, we’d earned our beds!

Fingers crossed the car starts tomorrow, when we head out chasing Aliens near Area 51, and then head to Death Valley!

Night folks!

West Coast USA – Day 11

Another early start for me, although not quite pre-dawn. As nice as the room is, the pillows are too pillowy for me. Little things, eh.

Oh. And the internet service is crap. The WiFi is great, the internet is great. The connection package is rubbish.

They need to amend the idle-timeout and max-session RADIUS attributes/VSAs. Having to reauthenticate every 60 minutes is a real pain in the arse. Bearing in mind it’s a Class B /29 subnet, the 8190 usable host addresses should be more than enough for DHCP not to be a concern kicking folk off. Sorry. Geek mode kicked in. Apologies!

On with the day…

Got up, downloaded the next 1000 or so photos from yesterday, finish writing & then post the blog.

Next on the agenda, having passed on the opportunity to phone room service for my box of La Colombo Pacific Blend, I wandered through and then out of the Hotel/Casino, crosses the road and bought a McDonalds coffee. Normally one of my “takeaway” favourites in the UK but this must be a different blend. Very bitter.

These two were still in bed when I got back, and Charlie was totally out for the count. Ended up shaking him awake at around 9:30.

Jane was insistent that breakfast today was at Denny’s, conveniently right opposite the hotel. After a 10 minute wait, we were in. Moons over Hammy for me, (egg, cheese & ham toasted sandwich with hash browns), and copious refills of coffee.

From there we sauntered next door to the Venetian. More mooching around this time by a faux canal and gondolas.

Boy there are some weird things for sale in there! “Colon Blow” Cereal, is just one example!

Forgot to mention, last night in Caesars Palace one of the shops was a gallery for a Russian Surrealist artist called Vladimir Kush. Look him up- his work is fantastic! I love the dragonfly riding a motorcycle.

After the Venetian, we wandered back to the hotel, donned our speedos (not really), and headed for the pool. Really nice pool, thankfully some of which was in shade of the 40+ Dev C heat. It as that hot, Almost tea-total Jane knocked back a (strong) 32oz (litre) frozen Margherita!

After a couple of hours, I overheated and we went to get ready to go to Freemont Street, the “bohemian” original casino area of Las Vegas, before the Flamingo area and the Strip were even conceived.

We needed to get there and have tea before 8:20pm so we decided to drive. Off to self park, managed to remember where our car was parked (6C) and went to load up.

And here’s where it goes “tits up”. The car won’t open. Either the remote battery or (more likely) the car battery are dead! Bugger!

I tried to use the emergency key but that won’t budge. Stuck, and under time pressure, we jumped an Uber whist I tried to work out a plan. (We don’t have breakdown cover).

Our driver was really nice, and very informative and helpful. He’s retired and just Uber’s when he wants to pull money to cover his fishing trips!

He told us where to stay around Freemont and where not to go. It’s a bit on the seedy side tbh.

We walked up the touristy “Freemont Street Experience” to be faced with all manner of sights! Charlie didn’t know which way to look!

Street performers, singers, a really fat bloke wearing a g-string, with pink bunny ears on expecting people to drop him cash just for sitting there like a right tool, Elvis and a topless Cherokee Indian squaw, more topless showgirls (with beer bellies, apparently – I didn’t look so wouldn’t know), topless girls, a sixty year old, 4ft10” Wonder Woman, an almost constant smell of weed, a stormtrooper that wanted you to duel him with swords, a man standing on another mans shoulders, homeless people, people pretending to be homeless people (probably), Eddie Murphy on a trolley with his legs strapped up pretending to have no legs. Ok, so not the last one, and maybe I’m too cynical and so not the one before. But you get the gist.

Having run the length of the street and back, we settled on tea at Mickie Finzz. Two for one Tacos for Charlie and I, Clam Chowder for Jane and two “Blue Moon” pints of Dutch courage for me!

Why the flip did we come here, you may ask! Because at 8:20pm, Charlie and I checked in at our designated flight boarding time, and headed up 11 storeys to be shot down a zip line that runs the full length of Freemont Street.

We checked in early to get our white wrist bands, to be told that I wouldn’t be allowed on with my GoPro, which was on a “wristie” (elastic Velcro Strap and plate that you can use when skydiving to film from your wrist).

Bugger that, I thought! Off we went and $9.99 later, I was the proud owner of one of the worst looking, tasteless, tacky, souvenir, fleecy LONG SLEEVED sweatshirts, which I duly donned despite the still 40deg C heat.

Sweating like a glass-blowers arse, we checked in, and I did all manner of distracting things when being suited up for my “flight”. Charlie was ashamed. Just ashamed.

“Sir, lie on the bed, face down and spread your legs”. Not again! We were harnessed up, the “beds” dropped away from us leaving us in a Superman pose (except for my bulbous left wrist that was tucked under my chest, out of sight).

As the doors in front of us fell away to reveal the 11-storey drop below and Freemont Street room stretching into the distance, I pressed the on switch, then the record button, saw the confirmatory flashing rouge light, and whipped my sleeve back just as he pressed the release button. Beat you, you miserable buggers!

I have film of Charlie and I flying down Freemont Street just below the roof line being waved at by the drunks, homeless, strippers, and Eddie Murphy, as we shot by!

I’d got one over on the system! This made for a minor consolation prize, prior to probably having to pay some hideous extortionist to get the Car back up and running, before we leave the day after!

A quick change out of my now sweaty sweatshirt, and another Uber.

Our driver, William is from Kenya. He’s been here for 5 years, likes America, but prefers the UK, although doesn’t fancy snow, and gets confused as to which side of the road to drive when he goes home.

He’s a Chelsea fan and would really rather be taxiing around Stamford Bridge, and have a season ticket, although he was shocked that a Man City season ticket may set someone back $1000 a season. Imagine his surprise when I explained Chelsea tickets were even more!

He was also really nice and we had a laugh. Dropped of at our hotel, I bid him farewell and said I hoped they lost their next competitive match (Charity Shield, against Man City next Sunday).

Back to our hotel having still not seen any of the Strip shows (e.g Bellagio Fountains etc, not that kind of strip show).

Maybe one for tomorrow evening, but only once we have a working vehicle!

Night all!

West Coast USA – Day 10

As per, I woke well before dawn.

Tossed, turned, and then gave up. Donned a pair of shorts, brewed a coffee, and sat on the balcony, watching the sun rise, from my rocking chair, with a mug of coffee in hand, and occasionally, with camera (on tripod, now held together with elastic hair bands) clicking away.

Tough life, I know, but as they say, someone’s got to do it!

This nights accommodation has been a real highlight for me. I’ve been able to be “in the moment” throughout, no drifting off thinking about other things, just aware and appreciative of the humbling majesty of the nature that surrounds us.

Eventually, Jane and then even more eventually Charlie, woke. By which time I was showered, packed, and bags in car.

Finally we left the room for the last time, dumped the bags in the car and went across to the Lodge for breakfast. More pancakes and maple syrup for Charlie, Eggs Benedict for Jane and a Zion special omelette for me. All of which were huge, as expected. And bearing in mind we’re a captive audience, I think the prices are very reasonable, given none of the above cost more than $11.

From the Lodge we walked straight to the bus pickup and headed to Weeping Rock, Janes favourite place when we last came, as the rock wall beneath the waterfall was covered in butterflies. Off the bus at “Stop 7” and then a short but steep walk to the wall.

You end up standing under an overhang and behind the waterfall. It’s cool, tranquil (even with all the other folk around you) and through the “raindrops”, the views beyond are a superlative-sapping good!

After photos, and some time to soak it all in, it’s back on the bus to “Stop 9”, the Temple of Sinawava, or as we named it m, the Temple to Shinawatra (he did start the Man City revival, after all!).

A much longer hike of just over of 2 miles, but almost flat, as you follow the river back into The Narrows.

And an eventful one as well! Loads and loads of cheeky ground squirrels, who will stand and pose for photos. It’s just a pity that they clearly do this in the knowledge that they may get fed by some moron who ignores all of the warning signs.

We then rounded a rocky outcrop, only to realise that there was a deer stood on it, feeding, not 6ft from the path. It’s clearly very used to these oddball multicoloured bipeds who stop, gather and then squabble to get nearest.

The hike ends at the beginning of another trail, but one with a difference. The Narrows and its features such as Wall Street) are one of Zion’s more iconic images.

However, the main difference is that to hike through the Narrows, you hike along and in the river. Those that do this more frequently were easy to spot, wearing sturdy closed hiking books made of neoprene and neoprene socks. I had lightweight Nike running trainers on.

Having felt the temperature of the river, Jane and Charlie declined to come further, but I couldn’t resist the lure. I thought I’d be crafty, and after removing shoes and socks, traversed the first section of river in bare feet. Shedded soles and strained ankles later (its rocky underfoot and you can’t see anything below the surface), I began to reassess.

When I heard the 5th neoprene-wearer comment that the water levels were much higher on their return trip, and remembered that the sign I just read warned of flash floods being marked by the blowing of whistles, at which point you literally run for your life, the trainers were sacrificed and back on my feet.

This allowed me to carry on into deeper water(!) and further into the Narrows. Sadly, I didn’t have the time, nor the right equipment to reach Wall Street, so turned and headed back.

The water is not that idyllic, crystal clear, burbling stream that would make for great photos, it’s the colour that reminds you Zion is still being formed, with the water carrying huge quantities of silt and flints from its erosive work upstream. Most of which was now in my trainers!

I walked back to jane and Charlie without losing my balance and therefore iPhone and DSLR camera, and we headed back to the bus stop. Jane commented on the water level seeming higher than on our way in. I hope those non-neopreners know what they’re doing!

The bus dropped us off at the Lodge, and after grabbing drinks for the journey, we bid a final farewell to Zion The Beautiful, and began our 3hour drive to Vegas.

During the three hours of driving the Veterans Memorial Highway, we dropped around 5000ft in altitude, went from 22 to 44 degrees C, drove through the Virgin River Gorge, and through a mountain range with no discernible name.

The landscape changes time and time again. You can’t help but be interested in the geology over here! Well, I can’t.

After watching the US Airforce do their Top Gun impressions over north Vegas before landing, and after our first (but not our last) traffic jam, we arrived without incident at the Self-Park car park for the Mirage Hotel. Our home for the next three nights.

“Ugh! 3 nights in Vegas?! What a waste”. Those are some of the comments we received on a Facebook group we’re in for travellers to western USA.

As I’ve just said to friend of mine, it’s true, it’s 100% fake and is borderline tacky. Like Blackpool on steroids.

We’re here for a variety of reasons; it’s break within a holiday (two ‘pool’/retail therapy days), it’s a logical transit stop between Zion and Death Valley, Charlie wanted to come, we’ve been before but never explored to other hotels.

We checked in, and despite my charm, and repeated mention of Janes 50th and our 25th Wedding anniversary, and how special we felt the place was, other than a room with a pool- and strip-view, no free upgrades this time!

A chunky walk through the hotel lobby, casino and then retail area (they’re not daft with their social engineering) to the “elevators” and up to the 19th of 26 floors.

The room is really nice, large, and more than adequate. What isn’t so nice are the electronic sensors on pretty much anything consumable. “Touch it & you shall pay through the nose”. Tbf, the lady at check-in did stress not to touch as it’s such an exorbitant rip-off.

As I write this (at dawn), I just wish there was a coffee machine rather than a $15 box (?) of La Colombo Pacific Blend that I can order as room service. I don’t even like American or African beans – it’s all about the Java/Sumatra/Mandeeling for me!

Having settled into the room, we freshened up went down to experience our first “Vegas Buffet”. The Mirage Buffet is one of the “middle of the road” price and quality-wise.

At $29/head you get a (totally unmanaged) maximum 3 hours of gorging on as much as you can eat from 11 different “stations”. A Station being a food theme; Italian, Eastern, Sushi, American, Latin, Carvery, Seafood, Dessert, Salad, Drinks and one I can’t remember.

The all-inclusive drinks are a variety of soft drinks or Bud Lite, Goose IPA, and a selection of red and white wines. I went with the Goose.

Whilst we did try a few different stations we only left what we tried and didn’t like. The eastern and sushi stations were by far the best, with the beef from the carvery a close third. The fish was over cooked, and the clam chowder not good apparently (Janes opinion). But otherwise good value, especially taking into account my repeated visits for another “Goose, please”!

It has to be said though, it really is shameful the way some folks use this. The lady in the turquoise top that piled her plate up about 5” high with prawns and crab, and then left half. The big American chap who seemed to have all 11 stations on one plate. Gluttony and greed seem to be temples here.

After our meal, we meandered out onto the strip and into the heat, and headed into Ceasars Palace and the shopping mall. All this way and I get dragged around a faux Trafford Centre! It even smells the same – of chlorinated fountain water!

It would be easy to suggest Vegas is a Marmite place – you love it or hate it. I have a different view because I love some of it, and feel really uncomfortable with some aspects as well.

Anyway. We’re here. We’ll experience Vegas for better or for worse, but it will be an experience, that’s for sure.

I just need to find Charlie, who is still somewhere in his king-sized pit!

Cheers, folks!

West Coast USA – Day 9

Let’s cut to the chase, today is all about our accommodation! The location, the suite, the food, the scenery, in no particular order.

Breathtaking!

It’s by far the most expensive nights accommodation on the trip, but as I said, in the main, you get what you pay for.

We’re at Zion Lodge. There are two ways to be here. Be a guest at the Lodge, or be a tourist, and be at the behest of the tourist buses, which finish bringing in people by now and only remove folk.

So at this time of the evening it’s very tranquil. I’m writing this sat on our balcony watching a wild deer feed on the lawn. Sorry, make that three wild deer.

Unlike the rest of the park earlier. It’s Sunday, and the weather has been great again, so it’s been exceptionally busy here. Almost to the detriment of our day, but not quite.

We drove the relatively short distance (42 miles) from Kanab after picking up a Subway sandwich to save for lunch (a lesson learned from yesterday) and got to the park entrance at about 11am.

You enter the park from the east along Zion Park Scenic Byway. Loads of stopping places, to get out and look around.

Unlike the other parks and canyons, I think the reason I love Zion is because you get to be “in it” rather than looking at it.

Everywhere you turn, there’s a hell of a view. Particularly one of the first. A short (but stupidly hot) hike up from the roadside and you wiggle your way across gang-plank bridges, look down into Pine Creek narrows, over sheer drops, look back across at the inverted Arch of Mount Carmel (where the road tunnel runs through), and under cave-like overhangs.

You eventually end up at the Canyon View which is an incredible panorama (another one!), looking down to the west side of the Mount Carmel Tunnel and into the valley below, all the time surrounded by cathedral-like towers over 1,000ft above.

A reverse hike back to the car, where I realised I’d stupidly left my mobile phone in direct sunlight. It was too hot to even pick up, so we threw it into the cool bag! Thankfully no damage done!

We then headed through the 1.1 mile long Mt. Carmel Tunnel and down to the valley floor. A right turn down the road that was signed “Permit holders only – Zion Lodge”.

We could only check in at 4pm, so we had an hour and a half to fit in a hike. It was an easy decision, and we walked from the Lodge across to the walk to Lower Emerald Pools.

0.6 miles later and we reached the waterfalls. You should have been able to carry on up to the Middle and Upper Emerald Pools but recent floods and a massive landslide have thrown huge boulders into the gorge, and it’s now unsafe to go further in.

Back to the Lodge, an easy & stress free check-in and we were given keys to the William Wallace Wylie Suite, in the upper floor of the lodge nearest the main reception.

Wow! It’s huge. And has a wonderful balcony with rocking chairs where you can while away the afternoon and evening with the most stunning view!

We crashed out for an hour, showered and then went for tea at the Lodge.

A veg soup to start and a big chargrilled sirloin (medium rare) for me. To accompany it, I had a pint of Zion Canyon Echo IPA (4%) which was very, very good. So good it disappeared, and I ended up ordering another pint. This time Inhad the Seasonal, which turned out to be a “Pomegranate Sour” Ale. An odd one, in that it was very drinkable, but tasted as much like a sweet cider, as an Ale.

Back to the room to write this, and as said earlier, sat here watching deer mooch around the lawn below our balcony.

Think I need to try and make sunrise tomorrow. If it’s clear, it should be a cracker.

Pity it’s just one night here, but next stop is something completely different – Vegas, baby!

Love it, or hate it, it’s unique! But that’s for tomorrow!

Night all!