Category: Holiday Blogs

The extra, extra day in Monterey. Trouble is, it turns out we are all worn out! At one point today, we nearly turned around and came back to the hotel for a nap!  Maybe we should have, but I’m glad we didn’t.

After an early night last night, it meant I just woke earlier than usual, after my customary 4’ish hours sleep. So from around 2:30am, the usual pattern followed (awake, doze, awake, fidget, “bugger this, I’m getting up”), although I did manage to get the “Day 17” blog out with my particularly early rise.

By 7am, I’d had two cups of coffee, read a few articles (“bricklaying for beginners”, a Santa Cruz travel guide, and one on effective carburation of an air-cooled VW engine by Gene Berg), and then completed my 834th consecutive daily-play ‘win’ on Solitaire. OCD has a place…

With the world set right, I then decided I use the pool facilities. Swimming shorts on, I opened our sliding patio door and flyscreen and took around 12 steps forward before letting myself into the pool area.

It was overcast and very cool, so much so, the pool was steaming – I reckon it was around 11°C air temperature.

The water felt lovely and warm, so a few laps up and down, and a few widths underwater got me moving. It was very relaxing, and I was able to completely ‘zone-out’ for a while, focusing on nothing but the water, the temperature and not drowning.

I then moved into the jacuzzi which was comparatively scorchio! 10 minutes of that and whilst relaxed, I was overheating. A dash back to the room, for just after 10 past 8, and thankfully Jane and Charlie were awake, so some gentle ‘chivvying along’ got us to breakfast at a more reasonable time today. Scambled egg on toast, topped with smoked salmon from the buffet for me. As a heads up, the three buffet breakfasts are around $85/day, so I’m glad that’s covered for our three days, at no additional charge!

Given it was overcast and there was a sea fog, we set off for Carmel-by-the-Sea, where property prices are a snip compared to those a mile or so away on 17-Mile Drive.

You could either rent a quaint little house for $12,000/month, or go the whole hog, and spend between $1-4 million and just buy one. They are lovely though – some look almost like hobbit houses, they are so cottagey!

A walk around town sated the shoppers and “Po-Go’ers” (Pokemon Go’ers) amongst us. I was less enthused, being honest and it was noticed. Even a walk up to Clint Eastwoods old bar, the Hogs Breath, didn’t make my enthusiasm cup flow over. I’m just knackered again! We had a pint in there when we came last, but it, like Carmel as a whole, seems just that touch more touristy, even if they tourists here clearly have fat wallets.

Having seen enough artisan shops and local artist galleries, we got back in the car and pottered along the scenic drive to shortlist our holiday home purchases. Honestly, it wasn’t the $1-4mil price tags that stopped us, we just didn’t see anything that quite met out requirements, otherwise we’d have got one for us, and one that friends could have used!

From there, I was given “free rein” on where next. I had had it in mind that I didn’t want to drive south, as we will be spending the next two days doing that, so I did a “180” and headed north on the “Pacific Coastal Highway 1” (PCH, for short). Hence my reading up on Santa Cruz earlier. None of us have been, and there’s a beach from boardwalk amusement park with old-school fairground rides and wooden roller coasters. For any 80’s film-buffs out there, it’s also where the comedy/horror film “Lost Boys” was filmed.

After around a 50-minute drive through acres of Brussel sprouts and strawberries, all being picked by those nice folk that will do a hard days work, those that Mr “POTY” Trump wants to build a wall between, we arrived at the sat-nav destination. Except I’d plumbed it in wrong and we ended up at very nice harbour, which would have been lovely to mooch around, if we had another day. Five minutes of added time later and I rescued a point, by getting us to a parking meter near the Boardwalk.

Despite us only having enough silverware for 100 minutes of parking, we put the last coin in as Jane and Charlie were walking away from the car, and headed to my pre-planned, “unexpected” attraction.

As we got to the eastern entrance to the boardwalk, I mentioned that the bridge to our left was allegedly the one out of Lost Boys scene. “You know the one where the train goes over, and Keifer Sutherland and the other vampires hang below?”. With a relatively loose grip on accuracy, I then explained the scene that would be more memorable to Jane. “You know the one where the kids are crossing and the train comes and the almost have to jump off the side?”. Not that that is from Lost Boys, or anywhere near here, its from “Stand By Me”. Still…

Anyway, the ploy/manipulation worked and both Jane and Charlie, walked across the railroad bridge, with the very large gaps between sleepers, and nothing but river below.

I did remined them that we needed to make sure we got across before the train came, but fair play to them, they took that very calmly and pottered across. Up until the midway point, where there is a missing sleeper and a gap much bigger than the rest.

After a slight hesitation, we all went across, and made it to the other side. Charlie and I then walked it back, whilst Jane chose the footbridge to the side.

All good fun, and we’re all less sleepy for a little taste of adrenalin.

Right! On to the Boardwalk! It was really nice meandering through the busy-but-fun amusements. It felt very “No(rthern) Cal(ifornia)”, and laid back. Although the donuts were pretty “in your face” big!

Charlie decided that he only wanted to go on one ride, and that was the historic wooden roller coaster, the “Giant Dipper”, putting us in that elite category of 60-million riders since its 1924 opening!

It was great! Short, but fast, and rickety, where probably two rides are never the same as it shifts around so much! We both really enjoyed it and are very glad we had a go!

Back to the car after a quick game of “totally annihilate Charlie at AirHockey” (Competitive Dad on Tour), and we decided to head home. As we walked back, I pointed out the train that had just arrived, and laughed about how we were lucky it hadn’t arrived an hour earlier, otherwise, we’d have been on the bridge and had to jump off.

It was then that their expressions gave away the fact that they thought I’d been joking when they walked the bridge. No wonder they were calm.

We hadn’t decided to head home via 10 miles of traffic jam however, which added a good half hour or so to our journey. Given traffic was so slow, and our car seems to have a hole in its fuel tank(!), I decided once again to fill up with fuel.

This Gas Station was manned by none less than the “spitting image” of Jackie Chan. Honestly, that’s not in anyway a lazy, racist comment, he did look a lot like Jackie Chan. It was when he smiled, in particular. Which he did, as he took almost $100 off me, for just less than a full tank of Regular! Wipe on, wipe off, my arse!

Back onto the slow crawl, which eventually got moving, occasionally even getting close to the speed limit (65mph). We toyed with just going back to the hotel but decided to eat at Fishermans Wharf. Touristy? Yep. Value? Unlikely. A “done that”? Definitely!

It was bloody freezing walking from the car down the pier, and only otters playing and a few sea lions barking helped take our mind off what cold feels like. Something we’ve forgotten until now.

We ate at an “OK” place, Clam Chowder was good enough. I chose fish and chips because I anticipated it being poor, along with most other things I fancied, and that was the cheapest of the things I was unlikely to enjoy. Which was the case. Charlie however made the best decision, having the Clam Chowder served in a bowl of made of bread!

What was brilliant though, was our view. We watched a big boat pull in, that had clearly been out “Whale Watching” and was full of people looking way to eager to get off! Out of around 100 people that walked past our window, none had a smile on their face, at least two looked medically frozen, one lady was clearly having a “right pop” at her partner for taking on such a “goddam’ awful, freezing, seasick-ridden trip”, and the rest all looked very, very cold!

Blimey, I’ve right wittered on today, and we didn’t even do much. Sorry about that! I’ll sum up.

From there, we came home for the last night here, and I wrote this diatribe!

I’ll call it a day, and catch up tomorrow with our trip down Big Sur to our second of three Santas, Barbara!

Night, folks!

Today was a very laid back and relaxing one. Sort of! Not difficult when this is the view from the patio!

I woke at my usually early 3:30/4am mark, and tried to doze back off. At 5am, I gave up, opened up my phone, connected to the pretty good WiFi and checked up on our building work.

We’re having an extension built, and the work started the Monday after we left, which may sound scary, unless you really trust those doing the work. I do and I’ve (currently!) got a really good relationship with our builder, and he knows I’m more than a bit OCD with regard to the detailing of the build.

That said, I’ve not worried or stressed once, as I’ve been kepy up to date with progress, and been sent regular messages and photos of progress. Its been going really well, and I’m delighted with how the work is progressing.

When we have had anything like half-decent WiFi, I’ve also been able to log in to my CCTV system at home, and take a quick look at whats been done. Its that final bit of reassurance, not that it’s been neeeded in reality.

I had one query today which may have been from the fixed view on the cameras, so I dropped Andy a WhatsApp message. As ususal, its me trying to be too involved, with only one perspective, literally, and Andy sent photos almost immediately that gave me a better understanding. Happy days!

There was one aspect that probably needed a quick call, but as it was 5am, and I was lying next to a very asleep Jane, I postponed that one, until I nipped out of the room. A quick catch-up, a better understanding of progress on my part, and its all good!

As seems the case at this point in the hols, getting Jane and particularly Charlie mustered and out is becoming a harder task by the day. We eventually went for our breakfast, but hit peak service, so had to hang around with a pager, until we were “buzzed”. The complementary buffet-style breakfast was brilliant! Really nice food and a huge selection!

Once I’d finished and the others were finishing up, I nipped to reception to check out of room 408, and immediately check back in to room 408. Its because we ended up with three separate bookings. Only took a minute or so, so no real inconvenience.

From there, we got in the car and drove the 8 minute journey to Fishermans Wharf, Cannery Row, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium, where we had decided to start the day.

After parking up, we set off towards the Aquarium, although the “retail” lure was effective, and my Shopper co-travellers took their time. As they should. They’re on holiday.

I on the otherhand had realised that I was in a foul mood, and had little patience today. Yesterdays drive and a lack of sleep, the likely cause. I warned the others that for no particular reason, I was a bit of a black cloud.

We had to queue to get in to the Aquarium, but it wasnt for long, and we got in pretty smartish, in reality. However, it was heaving! Really busy, and very difficult to stay together or even see some of the exhibits, displays and aquaria.

I had my “GoPro On A Stick” with me, and more than once I considered using it as a mallet, on one or two of the younger tourists! I really was in quite a foul mood!

Its actually very good, despite my demeanor, and we did manage to get to see everything eventually, the highlights being the Jelly Fish and the Sea Otter enclosure, and then seeing them outside in the wild.

From the Aquarium, we headed back to the car and decided to drive south and do the “17 Mile Drive”, which is a drive of 17 miles (duh!), along a private road (its a $10 fee), that meanders around the Pebble Beach peninsula, and takes in some fantastic views out over the Pacific, and the associated wild birds and sealife. The water is quite nippy, though.

Pebble Beach also happens to take in one of the worlds best and most famous eponymously-named Golf Courses (not that I know anything about that game), and on 17-mile Drive, there are some of what must be the most expensive properties in the USA, if not the world. The houses typically sell for around $30+ MILLION, so just out of our price range! I’ll settle for our extension for now.

A little “play” stacking a few of the pebbles at Point Joe Vista, just to freak out some of the other tourists, and stops at many of the amazing viewpoints, many of which, even if you’ve not been, you may recognise, as they are that well-known. Probably the most iconic is the Lone Cypress.

We stopped off at a little cove at Cypress Point Lookout, and spent 15 minutes or so watching a Sea Otter play, just out from the coastline. It was feeding, so was on its back, with a rock placed on its belly, and lay there smashing shellfish open on its “belly-rock”, and occasionally spinning over to rinse away the left-overs. They are very cute, and very easy to watch!

We eventually got towards the last section, around 6:30pm (at this early evening time, the quality of light had been fantastic, btw). We decided to go back into Monterey and eat at one of the many highly recommended restaurants.

We parked on a meter and pottered back down Cannery Row, and decided to give the Cannery Row Brewing Company bar a try. 72, yep 72 draft ales on tap. We could be here a while! And Jane may have to drive us the 8 minutes back!

Although we didn’t eat in one of the more obvious seafoody places, the food and service here were brilliant, and decent value as well, bearing in mind its prime location.

We all had their exquisite Clam Chowder (just enough, and not too much bacon, and nice and thick), and I went for CRBC Burger, medium rare, which was fabulous. Jane had the Fish Tacos and Charlie had their Pulled Pork ‘Sliders’ (three mini brioche-bunned burgers). The first beer I had was an absolute stunner, my fave so far, and from the brewery down the road. The Alvarado (Negredo?) Street Breweries “Double Dry Hopped Mai Tai-P-A”, was grapefruity, hoppy, and crisp. Yes, please! My second was a recommendation from the server, who suggested the Ballast Point Brewing “Aloha Sculpin”. Although $10.50 plus tax, plus tip, makes it a $14 pint (ouch!), it was also very good, thankfully!

Once finished, we paid up ($92 plus tip, including the drinks) and headed “home” to the Hotel. The sat-nav played up again on the way back, repeatedly locking up and saying its out of battery, even when plugged in to the charger, which created a few minor hassles whilst driving, but we got back without any real issue. I think the 54 degree heat from Death Valley has cooked it, tbh!

Speaking of temperatures, it has been quite a shock arriving here, as we’ve gone from being used to high-30s/low 40s with occasional levels of stupid-hot over the last two weeks, to arriving at the coast, with its fog, to temperatures as low as 12deg C. That’s positively freezing by our standards. But also confusing, given that if you’re in the sun, its also really warm (mid/high 20s).

We got back to the room, and I tried to write this blog, but ended up with my head on the keyboard, I was that knackered. Its now approaching 6am and I’m written up, whilst the others sleep, snore and speak (Charlie holds conversations in his sleep, probably about that bloody Fortnight game).

I’ve now got some sorting out of photos and videos to do, as I’ve run out of space on cards, sticks and hard disks, I’ve taken so many!

After I can get this lot up, I think a mooch around Carmel and a little taster of Big Sur is on the cards for today, so I’ll catch you later!

A really strange day today. We are now at Mammoth Lakes, where we had intended to get the chair-lifts up to the top, so we could admire the views and also say we went from 282ft below sea level to 11,030ft above, within 4 hours of driving.

But we haven’t done the chair-lifts. We’ll have to settle for 9,260ft above sea level!

Today is a day of “n’ts”. We didn’t see the USAF topgunning their way down Rainbow Canyon. We drove almost 200 miles and haven’t had to make more than 4 turns. We didn’t get to enjoy the views beyond Lone Pine, or into Mammoth, and we aren’t now going to stay at, or pass through Yosemite.

The fires have spread. There are fires near here in Mammoth (we’re not in any danger, mind), and the Yosemite fires have extended into the Valley, so they have therefore had to close the Park and all of the roads in and out to the west. This means we are on the fall-back plan of our fall-back plan. With no alternative but to go “over the top” via the 108 and skip north of the Tioga Pass, this means that we needed to find accommodation somewhere between here and Monterey, which is now a 7 hour drive away.

Bugger it! Rather than stay a day somewhere unplanned and unknown just to break a journey up, we have all decided to book yet another night in our fancy hotel in Monterey (3, now), and just smash the drive in a one-er. Well, I’m sure we may call in to a few beauty spots through Stanislaus National Forest, or in the preserved 49’er “goldrush” town of Columbia, California.

So last night, after posting the blog, and as Jane & Charlie settled down for the night, I grabbed my camera & tripod (still on its last three legs, held together with hair bands), and went out onto the golf course, dodging the sprinklers as I went. Which is a lot harder that you may think, given that, save for the light from the bedrooms, its almost pitch black. These are some of the darkest skies on the planet.  Almost no light pollution at the Ranch and none, if you’re brave enough to venture out into the vast, desert space.

Which the chap from Southampton that I got chatting to (another night sky photographer) had done. However, he admitted he didn’t last long. He’d parked up, and used his phone to pick a route through the rattlesnakes, scorpions and black widow spiders (did I mention those before?), into the scrub. Settling down, after setting up his (very stable) tripod that wasn’t on its last three legs, and his ultra-fast, ultra-wide angle lens, he said he felt “watched”. He then heard movement, which made him turn, only to end up looking at a pack of Coyote, who were presumably wondering what ISO setting he was proposing to use.

Due to his lens, his “proof” photo was a pointless exercise, but I’m convinced this happened. Partly because, I’m also convinced that when I was trying to take those pre-dawn photos, out of the corner of my eye, I saw a large dog-like thing, run across the golf course. They are around, that’s for sure.

We chatted about the footy (he was up until recently a S’hampton season ticket holder), and how Raheem Sterlings late winner for Manchester City made it an outstanding game. We chatted about the photography, and how much he learned on a specialist start photography course. The trick is to set your ISO up at 6400+, and keep shutter speeds to <30secs, if you’re interested. We also chatted about our respective holidays and how he was having to sneak out to take his photos, whilst his offspring just moaned about how crap the wifi is and that YouTube is just “soooo laggy!”. Sounds familiar!

A reasonable start for us this morning, and we were packed, out of the room, and checked out of our accommodation well before 9:30am. After a debate, we decided to give the canteen another go. We chose well, ordering bagels with Philadelphia, and I had toast and a portion of scrambled egg. No grease, half the price (not quite), job done!

We then began the eeriest of journeys. The 204-mile journey has three directions on TomTom Drive:

1. Drive 103 miles down Route 190

1. Turn Right onto the US-395 and drive for 98 miles

1. Turn off and take CA-203 along Main Street for 3 miles. You have reached your destination!

Despite me filling up our gas-guzzler at the fateful Vegas Wallmart, we only had a half tank, so needed to be careful with refuelling. Not so easy when they’re 70+ miles apart.

On the way in to Death Valley, regular 87ron unleaded was just under $3/gallon. At Furnace Creek, it was just short of $5. I pressed on in the vain hope that I could make Lone Pine and that it would be cheaper. Wrong on both counts. We ended up doing a $40 “splash and dash” at Panamint, at $4,90/gal.

The drive so far had been…well, dull tbh. It was hazy, so the views weren’t so good, and it was pretty dull driving.

Until we dropped onto the downhill part leading to the Panamint Dry Lake crossing. We stopped and got out, despite the heat.

It was actually one of our highlights. Miles and miles and miles in every direction and for about 10 minutes, it was just us three.

What a place! With more time, this would be a stunning place to take a sunrise or sunset photo, and I bet the astro stuff would be pretty funky as well!

Onwards and upwards, literally. Even getting out of Death Valley, you jump to over 4,000ft.

Sadly, Maverick and Goose weren’t flying today, so we pressed on. Having passed through Lone Pine, the journey got more “eerie”, with the haze now taking on a “browny” tinge. It was smoke.

And that sums up the remaining 150 or so miles. Smoke-obscured views.

Entering Mammoth 2 hours before check-in, we drove up the mountain, didn’t do the ski-lift, and drove part-way down and across to Mammoth Lakes, where we stopped to get out and admire the view. We didn’t do that either! This time yesterday, we were in 54°C heat. It was now 19°C and windy. We all changed into warmer clothes!

The light, the weather, the air. All very screwed up!

We checked in to the Shilo Inn, which is pricey for what it is, but you’re paying to be in one of the best outdoor adrenalin-junkie playgrounds, with ski-lifts everywhere being used to ferry full-suspension downhill mountain bikes and their brave pilots up to the top. Where they then saddle up and then descend the “Kamikaze” downhill trail. Would love to have a go, one day!

Now with internet, we checked the latest on Yosemite, and as we had anticipated, it was buggered. No way to get in to the valley from east or west. I must be honest and say that despite acknowledging that it is an ever-changing situation, the communication from Yosemite Accommodation has been diabolical. As in non-existent.

I phoned them to check the official score (even having already booked that extra, extra night in Monterey). I explained we had previously cancelled the second of two nights, and that we were checking about tomorrow. She checked my booking reference, and then told me that the first night had been automatically cancelled due to the fire. Nice, but no one had told me that. After prodding, she did confirm that a refund would be issued in full but couldn’t say when. More paperwork to check & cross reference when we get home!

Sorted, of sorts, we then headed out for something to eat. Jane was “starving” and fancied a well-recommended Mexican. Robertos Café was a short walk from the hotel. During which, I became short of breath and began coughing. This because the air has ash in it. You can see it falling and swirling in the pretty strong wind.

A “mammoth” portion for each of us, in between Pokemoning(!) and a view of the sun, that was pre-apocalyptic, before the quick walk back to the hotel.

It really is quite sad, seeing Mammoth in such weather – it must be really affecting the hiking, trailing, biking & climbing scene here.

A long day tomorrow, but all in a good cause! Disappointed we’re not going to see Yosemite again, of course, but thrilled to have three days in and around Monterey.

An early night for us all tonight!

Catch you tomorrow!

I woke in plenty of time for the 5:54am dawn! A good two hours early to be precise! Hacks me off, my sleep pattern.

Thing is I know it won’t help when I get home and have just half a day before setting off to work for another week.

I got the camera and tripod and tiptoed our onto the balcony. Jeezus! It’s 4am and still 38°C! And that was whilst it was “blowin’ a hoolie”! No idea what it would have been if the air was still.

Tbh, it was hard work sitting there in that heat. Especially when you’re eyes told you you should be cold. Very odd! So odd I came back inside for a while!

When the sky started to change colour, I began taking some photos, but being frank, the view, and the sky weren’t a patch on somewhere like the Grand Canyon – there’s a lot of haze here, scattering light. This is reflected in my “average” photos.

I tried again as the sun just started over the mountain tops, but again, not going to make it into the album, probably.

I actually ended up going back to bed and did manage to doze for an hour, before relenting, getting up and prepping for the day (the usual – wash the water bottles/bidons, full with ice water, pack the cool bag, take to car, with camera bags).

By the time sleepyhead Charlie was out of his pit, and we got to the canteen, breakfast was had at just after 10am. And it wasn’t great, either.

Charlie managed to pour the maple syrup down himself, his phone and his shorts. Some did go on the 3 pancakes and bacon, of which he ate half a pancake. Jane had the “breakfast barm” but that turned out to be quite greasy and uninspiring, as was my scrambled egg, sausage “links”, and hash browns. Again fairly swimming in oil.

Oh well, we live and learn! Just a pity that with drinks it was over $50. Maybe Denny’s isn’t so bad after all!

Finally rounded everyone up, and loaded the car, and set off to the visitor centre, just down the road.

Nicely laid out, just a pity we couldn’t get near the tourist thermometer, due to a coach that had just pulled in and deposited 50’ish French folk.

115°C at 11am. May be a warm one today. We decided we’d head north to Ubehebe Crater, a massive caldera, crests by a steam build-up that led to a massive explosion around 2000 years ago. To give you an idea of scale, Ubehebe (Oooh-bee-hee-bee. Go on say it. Makes you smile, doesn’t it!), was a 54 mile drive north. With little else between, that’s a fair commitment for another big hole.

Pretty much all of the last 25 miles were barren, in a really amazing way. Nothing. Until you really look. Then there are little pockets of differing geology. Different colours, plants, textures. It’s really more beautiful in a twisted sort of way, than you may wish to credit it with.

The last 15 miles we’re on a dead end road. Very wide, very flat, acres of flat land to each side of the tarmac. I had cruise on at the desperately low 35mph (ugh). Charlie reckoned it looked so easy he could get us there.

These carefully constructed, very realistic photos, make it look like Charlie drove the big truck the last 5 miles unaided. He was really good! I think all of those computer games have made it easier for him to (pretend) drive, even if it was an auto transmission.

We arrived at Ubehebe and got out of the car. Needless to say, some berk with 20 other potential spaces chose the one next to ours and parked too close. WTF! Is it that same cock-womble from our last Volcano Crater?

When we got out, it was like disembarking a long-haul airline from the rear steps – when the pilot had forgotten to turn off the Rolls Royce RB211 turbofan engines. It was blowing jet-hot air at us, at a right force!

Great view, although way too hot to attempt the hilly, mile long hike through cinders. Just touristy photos, this time! They’ve done the viewing area up (like at Dante’s View) in the intervening years since we came last. Not a massive surprise. But definitely better, and with an emphasis on accessibility as well.

Back down the road for the return 50’ish miles, and Charlie had another (pretend) drive for the next 5 miles. Oh, how we laughed at his (pretend) right turn after a “Yield” sign, and inability to comprehend how much you need to rotate a steering wheel, compared to a bit of “full right stick” on an XBox controller.

Enough of this pretend stuff, we need to make up ground. I took control. “You have control”, said Charlie. “I have control”, said I. Taught him well!

We took a right not far from the Ranch and headed towards Stovepipe Wells. We were overtaken by two cars in ”stealth” mode. Basically, it was two next-year model BMW X5s being tested I presume, in a camouflage wrap, made up of Matt black and wiggly white stripes that meant it was tricky to discern body lines.

We stopped at Mesquite Sand Dunes. Without wishing to repeat myself, jeez, it’s hot! Car temp gauge is now showing 49°C. That’s pretty warm to be frolicking around in sand dunes. So hot in fact that Janes IPhone said enough is enough and flicked the overheat sign on!

Must point out that heading into the scrub, before the dunes, we all did as the notices say – “don’t put your feet where you can’t see them, due to rattlesnakes, scorpions and Black Widow spiders”. Easy to follow. No deviations!

None of us died of the heat or fatal poisoning, and made it back to the car.

We then drove the short trip to Stovepipe Wells, piled into the gift shop/general store and bought a snacks lunch. I also bought a mix of 6-bottles of Ale, which cost only fractionally more than a pint at the Ranch.

We got chatting to a lovely older couple from Oxfordshire who were on their honeymoon. Like us, they are supposed to be off to Yosemite arriving Sunday. It’s now really not looking good as they’ve closed part of the 120, which means you can’t drive east to west, and, frustratingly, they are being very late with their calls on whether there is any accommodation “in Park”. We all think we won’t get there now, and will end up having to do some very last minute reworking of itineraries.

Tbh, I think Yosemite accommodation are at fault here. They should be putting us first rather than trying to make sure they lose as little revenue as possible. The balance just isn’t quite right, IMHO.

We bid farewell, got back in our 4-wheel furnace, and drove off towards todays final stops. The biggies. The showcase “money shot” views – Artists Drive, The Devils Golf Course, and the lowest and likely hottest part of the park, Badwater.

Devils Golf Course came first, and although Charlie was mithered by needing a wee desperately, it’s a real sight to behold. That said, I reckon my mate Alan, would still go around this with his usual cussing, and end up with a similar scorecard.

Driving away, we hit our own blinder! Photo to prove, the temp hit 54°C (127°CF), just 3°C off the world record, I think. That’s quite warm! It must have been, Jane took her Cardy off…

Next was Badwater. At 282ft below sea level it was still a balmy 51°C at the lowest point in the northern hemisphere. However, before venturing onto the salt flats, I had a more pressing engagement. (No photos, you’ll be glad to hear).

Thankfully, the “Long Drop” was in service and accessible. Although taking a dump into a hole in the ground isn’t blog material per se, it is worth a mention, given where we were. If you’ve not had the misfortune, all I can say is I was in and out quicker than Jack Flash himself. No need to linger and read a newspaper.

Off to the salt flats. For about 5 minutes. Because that’s all we could stand. Our eyelids were burning. Our throats parched within seconds. Every pore was forcibly ejecting sweat and max pressure. What a place this is!

A final sojourn through the very scenic Artists Drive, and a quick wave to R2D2 and the Jawa that zapped and then stole him from here in the original (1977) Star Wars Ep III – A New Hope.

Back to the Ranch, tea in the canteen, at which we played safe and went salad and soup, after the breakfast, and then bed!

Hoping to drive out via one of the valleys where the “The United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program, more popularly known as Topgun, teaches fighter and strike tactics and techniques to selected naval aviators and naval flight officers”.

Guess what will be on tomorrow’s playlist! I feel the need, the need for speed!

“Hey Goose! Take me to bed or lose me forever.”

“Show me the way home, honey.”

😉

A lie in at last! I woke at around 5:30am and dozed until 6am. Not bad for me, that!

Very quietly, I tidied the room, packed up the camera/tech rucksack, had a shower and packed my bag. Washed out all the bidons, and the large “souvenir Mirage” drink cups, packed the (not-so) coolbag and hauled all of the above to the car.

With a fair bit of trepidation, I pressed the tailgate button, wondering if anything would happen. Thankfully, the tailgate lifted, and I threw all the bags in.

A quick check that the car started (it did), and a 5 minutes rev of the engine without the aircon, lights, or “entertainment system”, before locking up and heading back to the room.

Jane was up, and delighted that the dodgy GPS meant that without leaving her pit, her Pokemon avatar had walked about half a mile. Not sure what that means, but she was happy, so that’s fine by me.

Now the grotty bit, the long walk through the casino, lobby, walkway, lift and car park, to ditch the remaining bags in the car, before checking out of the hotel, and checking in to Denny’s for one last time (I hope – I’m a tad “Dennied Out”).

After another monster breakfast, that included about 2 litres of Diet Coke, as well as poached eggs on muffins with hash browns, we got back to the car to start our next adventure.

It’s roughly a 3-hour drive from the Mirage to what is now known as the “Oasis at Furnace Creek”, which will be the last time I refer to it as that. It will always be Furnace Creek Ranch to us, it’s name when Jane and I were last there. Which is coincidentally the last time I razor-shaved my bonce (head).

Having set up the sat nav to route us th Furnace Creek via the Extra-Terrestrial Highway, we remembered we needed “supplies” (sweets, crisps, cordial, and water), so I plumbed in the Walmart Super Centre and we set off.

Grabbing fuel on the way ($3.12/US Gal), expecting extortionate rates at Death Valley, we got to the Supermarket in good time. So much so, we were all taken in by the clearance “bargains”, walking out with a “Dri-Fit” lightweight T-shirt ($3) for me & two pairs of cotton shorts for Jane (2x $2). My Dad would be proud! He liked a deal, did Cliff.

Another 20minutes further on, I got spooked by the road we were on. Just didn’t seem right.

Bugger! The satnav has dropped the Extra Testicle Highway for the supermarket. I pulled over to replan.

Unfortunately, the geology ‘round here means that basically between here and the Pacific Coast, the plates got squished up into North/South mountain ranges. Going east-west in a car, well basically you can’t. To go via The Alien Cafe (in Paul, the movie) would be an additional 400 miles/5h driving. No thanks. We carried on, although I was fuming with myself!

We got to the Park and turned South to go to Dante’s View, at over 5,400ft up. At the top, you get (yet more panoramic) views of the whole length of Death Valley, with the Panamint Range of Mountains, in the background. It was a balmy 34°C.

Strange to think that just over half an hour away we’ll be down there, and over 5,500ft lower, and therefore below sea level.

After a nice little hike to an overlook, we got back in the car and headed to Zabriskie Point, a huge Borax field, very yellow in colour, but more pressing, a more than balmy 48°C!

You breathe in and it burns your throat. My sunglasses frames were too hot to touch. As was my camera, and GoPro.

Charlie had stayed in the car (still tired, still teenage!), and we know dogs die in hot cars. No one ever mentions pubescent kids. I presume therefore, they don’t?

Well for once, responsibility kicked in and I followed Janes advice and headed back to the car. And Charlie.

He wasn’t a husk, so we set off the 8 minute drive to our accommodation for the next two nights.

It’s undergoing a big refurb and remodel at the moment, so much so, we couldn’t recognise where we stayed last time, albeit 18 years ago.

Checked in, upper floor room, with nice balcony (which is too hot to sit out on). Filled the ice bucket. And went for tea at the cafe.

Even the few hundred yard walk was almost too much to bear, it’s so hot. Good fun all the same, though.

Nachos with chicken and beef all ‘round, with a pint of West Coast IPA for me, quickly followed by a pint of Ballast Point Sculpin. Both nice, although the West Coast seemed pretty feisty!

Back to the room. Jane did some “dobying” and I went out and took some photos of sunset over the Panamint, from our doorstep Golf Course.

And now to bed! Aiming for another sunrise tomorrow (5:54am), so would need to be set up by 4:30am latest. Also aiming for a Milky Way photo tomorrow night, after sunset, so a long day, with lots of driving in the Park.

Hence calling it a night!

Catch you tomorrow!

Cheers!

Phew! What a relief!

Having only gone to bed at midnight, I was up for 3am. Can’t sleep for three reasons:

1. I don’t sleep, generally
2. I’m itchy as feck. Think they use bio washing powder here, which doesn’t agree with my delicate, fair skin!
3. I’m mithered about the car & battery situation (lack of!)

So I spend an hour reading the manual for our car, and how to unlock it manually. Then I read the small print on the hire agreement. We definitely have “24h mechanical breakdown” cover.

Googling their website, although I can’t find a definition of said cover, I do find their description of “Roadside Assistance Protection” which specifically covers key failures, lockouts and jump starts.

Cool. I decide to get up, get dressed and sort this before anyone else is even up. Wandering through the casino however, I’m reminded that this is a 24×7 environment,and some folk sleep less than me!

I get to Aisle 6A on Floor 6 of Self Park, at the Mirage Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada and double check that the emergency key really didn’t work. It didn’t.

I call Alamo Roadside assistance and the lady I spoke to confirmed that it was likely just a battery drop out and she could get someone there within 20 minutes to jump start the car. Fabulous!

“That’ll be a minimum charge of $75 dollars sir. Ok to proceed?”. No, not without a fight, on principle if nothing else. Explaining the 24h breakdown, she rebuffed this. “Yes yo do, sir, but that’s for major stuff. It’s extra to cover the little bits like this”.

Ok. Let’s get on with this and I’ll have to argue the point later. We’ve done nothing wrong. The car battery has probably wilted in this heat, and I wouldn’t blame it. It’s just before 5am and it’s 36deg C!

So, we agreed to disagree and that she would send someone to sort it, and I would argue when I drop off the car.

Less than 25 minutes later a short Hispanic lad turns up in his orange “Pop-A-Lock” van, and he also confirms I’m not being daft, and the emergency key is in a state of emergency, having catastrophically failed to carry out its one job.

He got a small wedge, and slid that into the passenger window rubber. He then got a bigger wedge which created a gap, down which he put a glorified coat hook. In less than a minute, the car was unlocked. Quite scary really!

Now the car was open, up with the bonnet and the portable power pack was connected and another 30 seconds later and I’m in a fully functioning car! Woohoo!

The guy said he felt it was likely that it was a heat-induced drop-out and to run the car for a half hour to get some charge back. His reaction to our next stop being Death Valley didn’t fill me with confidence though.

After he left, I spend the next 45 minutes driving up and down the Strip as the sun rose, charging the battery.

Having parked up again in Aisle 6A on Floor 6 of Self Park, at the Mirage Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada (the lady from Alamo required my location to this exacting standard, so who am I to let those slip), I returned to our room, and eventually nodded back off for an hour.

We finally got out of the room at around 10:45 (Charlie being fast asleep again ‘til around 10am), and headed back to Denny’s for breakfast. Why not, we’re on us hols!

A walk up the North Strip up to the relatively new and stylish Wynn Encore, and the across to what turned out to be another Trafford Centre. (*Shoulders slump*).

Charlie decided to spend his holiday money on another pair of black Nike trainers to go with his other three pairs. Meanwhile I began falling asleep stood up. Absolutely knackered.

We made it back to the room just in time for me to lie down and fall asleep properly. Jane and Charlie ducked out from my snoring and went to the pool for an hour or so.

After the obligatory second shower of the day, we walked down to South Strip, where we had tea at the Planet Hollywood Cafe.

Ribs for Charlie, served on a miniature ‘pub beer garden bench’ (no idea why), two staters for Jane, and a Kobe beef Burger for me. All very nice, and washed down with a pint of “Bad Beat – Bluffing isn’t Weisse”.

Jane, who is “Queen of the Full Fat” insisted we called in and had a look around the Coca Cola store, where a souvenir tee-shirt was purchased. Very fitting.

A long walk back passed the fountains at Bellagio, and we headed back, all now knackered.

Having averaged over 18,000 steps per day over our time in Vegas, we’d earned our beds!

Fingers crossed the car starts tomorrow, when we head out chasing Aliens near Area 51, and then head to Death Valley!

Night folks!

Another short ‘intro’ clip, this time of our visit to Meteor Crater.

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX2Uu39vfgM]

A really short clip of us entering Zion National Park via the Scenic Highway and Canyon View before entering the Mt. Carmel Tunnel.

Forgive the beer-bellied selfie – its a wide angle lens and tends to exaggerate curves. Honestly!

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSZNdD949sI]

Another early start for me, although not quite pre-dawn. As nice as the room is, the pillows are too pillowy for me. Little things, eh.

Oh. And the internet service is crap. The WiFi is great, the internet is great. The connection package is rubbish.

They need to amend the idle-timeout and max-session RADIUS attributes/VSAs. Having to reauthenticate every 60 minutes is a real pain in the arse. Bearing in mind it’s a Class B /29 subnet, the 8190 usable host addresses should be more than enough for DHCP not to be a concern kicking folk off. Sorry. Geek mode kicked in. Apologies!

On with the day…

Got up, downloaded the next 1000 or so photos from yesterday, finish writing & then post the blog.

Next on the agenda, having passed on the opportunity to phone room service for my box of La Colombo Pacific Blend, I wandered through and then out of the Hotel/Casino, crosses the road and bought a McDonalds coffee. Normally one of my “takeaway” favourites in the UK but this must be a different blend. Very bitter.

These two were still in bed when I got back, and Charlie was totally out for the count. Ended up shaking him awake at around 9:30.

Jane was insistent that breakfast today was at Denny’s, conveniently right opposite the hotel. After a 10 minute wait, we were in. Moons over Hammy for me, (egg, cheese & ham toasted sandwich with hash browns), and copious refills of coffee.

From there we sauntered next door to the Venetian. More mooching around this time by a faux canal and gondolas.

Boy there are some weird things for sale in there! “Colon Blow” Cereal, is just one example!

Forgot to mention, last night in Caesars Palace one of the shops was a gallery for a Russian Surrealist artist called Vladimir Kush. Look him up- his work is fantastic! I love the dragonfly riding a motorcycle.

After the Venetian, we wandered back to the hotel, donned our speedos (not really), and headed for the pool. Really nice pool, thankfully some of which was in shade of the 40+ Dev C heat. It as that hot, Almost tea-total Jane knocked back a (strong) 32oz (litre) frozen Margherita!

After a couple of hours, I overheated and we went to get ready to go to Freemont Street, the “bohemian” original casino area of Las Vegas, before the Flamingo area and the Strip were even conceived.

We needed to get there and have tea before 8:20pm so we decided to drive. Off to self park, managed to remember where our car was parked (6C) and went to load up.

And here’s where it goes “tits up”. The car won’t open. Either the remote battery or (more likely) the car battery are dead! Bugger!

I tried to use the emergency key but that won’t budge. Stuck, and under time pressure, we jumped an Uber whist I tried to work out a plan. (We don’t have breakdown cover).

Our driver was really nice, and very informative and helpful. He’s retired and just Uber’s when he wants to pull money to cover his fishing trips!

He told us where to stay around Freemont and where not to go. It’s a bit on the seedy side tbh.

We walked up the touristy “Freemont Street Experience” to be faced with all manner of sights! Charlie didn’t know which way to look!

Street performers, singers, a really fat bloke wearing a g-string, with pink bunny ears on expecting people to drop him cash just for sitting there like a right tool, Elvis and a topless Cherokee Indian squaw, more topless showgirls (with beer bellies, apparently – I didn’t look so wouldn’t know), topless girls, a sixty year old, 4ft10” Wonder Woman, an almost constant smell of weed, a stormtrooper that wanted you to duel him with swords, a man standing on another mans shoulders, homeless people, people pretending to be homeless people (probably), Eddie Murphy on a trolley with his legs strapped up pretending to have no legs. Ok, so not the last one, and maybe I’m too cynical and so not the one before. But you get the gist.

Having run the length of the street and back, we settled on tea at Mickie Finzz. Two for one Tacos for Charlie and I, Clam Chowder for Jane and two “Blue Moon” pints of Dutch courage for me!

Why the flip did we come here, you may ask! Because at 8:20pm, Charlie and I checked in at our designated flight boarding time, and headed up 11 storeys to be shot down a zip line that runs the full length of Freemont Street.

We checked in early to get our white wrist bands, to be told that I wouldn’t be allowed on with my GoPro, which was on a “wristie” (elastic Velcro Strap and plate that you can use when skydiving to film from your wrist).

Bugger that, I thought! Off we went and $9.99 later, I was the proud owner of one of the worst looking, tasteless, tacky, souvenir, fleecy LONG SLEEVED sweatshirts, which I duly donned despite the still 40deg C heat.

Sweating like a glass-blowers arse, we checked in, and I did all manner of distracting things when being suited up for my “flight”. Charlie was ashamed. Just ashamed.

“Sir, lie on the bed, face down and spread your legs”. Not again! We were harnessed up, the “beds” dropped away from us leaving us in a Superman pose (except for my bulbous left wrist that was tucked under my chest, out of sight).

As the doors in front of us fell away to reveal the 11-storey drop below and Freemont Street room stretching into the distance, I pressed the on switch, then the record button, saw the confirmatory flashing rouge light, and whipped my sleeve back just as he pressed the release button. Beat you, you miserable buggers!

I have film of Charlie and I flying down Freemont Street just below the roof line being waved at by the drunks, homeless, strippers, and Eddie Murphy, as we shot by!

I’d got one over on the system! This made for a minor consolation prize, prior to probably having to pay some hideous extortionist to get the Car back up and running, before we leave the day after!

A quick change out of my now sweaty sweatshirt, and another Uber.

Our driver, William is from Kenya. He’s been here for 5 years, likes America, but prefers the UK, although doesn’t fancy snow, and gets confused as to which side of the road to drive when he goes home.

He’s a Chelsea fan and would really rather be taxiing around Stamford Bridge, and have a season ticket, although he was shocked that a Man City season ticket may set someone back $1000 a season. Imagine his surprise when I explained Chelsea tickets were even more!

He was also really nice and we had a laugh. Dropped of at our hotel, I bid him farewell and said I hoped they lost their next competitive match (Charity Shield, against Man City next Sunday).

Back to our hotel having still not seen any of the Strip shows (e.g Bellagio Fountains etc, not that kind of strip show).

Maybe one for tomorrow evening, but only once we have a working vehicle!

Night all!