West Coast USA Trip – 2018 – Page 3

West Coast USA – Day 7

A really easy day today. Not done a lot…

All of us got up fairly late at around 7am, after a series of long days, although I think the fact I’d had two amber ales, and then another of those Voodoo Ranger Imperial IPAs (9%), a Deschutes Hop Henge IPA (8.5%) and a Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale (5%) probably assisted me!

Had a quirky breakfast of what looked like shish and shami kebabs, with a boiled egg, and a weird tiny omelette made of two egg ‘circles’ filled with some sort of runny cheese! Set me up for the day, that did!

After breakfast, I called Yosemite to discuss our booking, and long story short, they reckon the park will be fully back to normal by our arrival date. Call me a cynic, but at the cost of the accommodation each night, we weren’t prepared to gamble the 2-night cost. Instead we booked another night in Monterey (same hotel), and cancelled our second night at Yosemite.

This means we can travel over the Tioga Pass, into Tuolumne Meadows, and then down into Yosemite Valley, where we are staying, and then, if the weather is good and clear, spend most of the following day around what we hope will be a quieter Yosemite, and then head across to Monterey later on. If the weathers not so good, we set off early to Monterey and get more time around Cannery Row and the Aquarium!

Either way is fine by us, and even if they then close the park for that one night, as sad as it would be not to go, we can head north from Mammoth Mountain and go over the more northerly Highway 108 and book accommodation somewhere around Sonora.

Sorted! Now back to the holiday!

Today was a day where we could do what we wanted so long as we ended up in Kanab, for late afternoon. I had an idea, but didn’t want to force it on Charlie and Jane, unless they had no preferences anyway, Which they didn’t. So this is what we did…

Drove out of Page, stopping briefly at the impressive Glen Canyon Dam to take some photos. Basically this Dam has held back the Colorado River, and essentially flooded a major section of the Grand Canyon. Didn’t go down well at the time, but its here, and all you can do is admire the engineering and what it did create which was the incredible Lake Powell.

From there we headed towards Kanab, but with little between the two places, and only an hour long drive, I suggested a detour.

Here’s where my plan came in.

“How about we take a right onto that Cottonwood Canyon Road, I read about? Supposed to be some incredible views…”

After an affirmative, I turned off and headed down the road. Passing the first sign, my passengers expressed some concern. “Unpaved Road – Not Passable When Wet” read the sign.

“Don’t worry, its on the map, on TomTom and we are insured because of that. Trust me.” I replied, whist hiding my own nerves! I didn’t have the balls to tell them that this was over 40 miles of off-road. I buried that info for the time being.

Wow! It was amazing! First part was very sandy and the car was shifting around on it as I drove. The next section was very bumpy, with some very steep downhill sections (low gear stuff). The scenery however, was absolutely superb! And views not seen by many a “normal” traveller!

We got thrown about, we were tipped sideways, upwards, downwards. We skidded, we hit some big pot holes and crossed river gullies. We crept passed huge boulders that overhung the car, after warnings of rock falls. It was ACE!

At least I thought so. Passengers we’re approving of the views, but not so of the “adventurous driving”. Particularly when the sky went black and we watched rain, thunder and lightning. What did that first sign say again?

Must confess to having a few moments of doubt, and given over the 42 miles of unpaved road we passed 4 cars, all heading in the opposite direction, away from the storms.

Photos will give you an idea, but I have a lot of the journey on the GoPro, so at some point I’ll upload some of the best bits and blog it in a bit more detail.

Anyway, we finally hit tarmac near the Kodachrome Basin State Park, with no damage to anything at all! If we’d have had more time, it would have been good to take a look there as well, and the 50-odd huge monolithic red rock spires. Although, I think I would have been the only enthusiastic visitor.

I think its fair to say that Charlie is getting to that point where he will never want to see a canyon, “some more red rock” or a pueblo ever again in his life. As I reminded him, only two more to go (Bryce Canyon & Zion National Park), unless you include Death Valley, and Yosemite, of course! 😉

We then headed back towards Kanab, where our hotel is, and the road took us through Red Canyon Tunnels and past the entrance to Bryce Canyon. Charlie looking non-plussed in the back of the car!

Whilst driving, I was overtaken by a “cowboy” in a white pickup truck, who after overtaking, threw what looked like a beer can out of his passenger window, which I managed to swerve. This annoyed me and I accelerated to take a photo of his number plate, in case I had reason to report him. Having checked his plate, I decided it was unlikely, as I think this Cowboy was from Brokeback Mountain – his car reg was “BOYZ2MEN”! Seriously? I’m comfortable with anyone’s sexuality, but the juxtaposition of stereotyping isn’t lost on me.

On arriving in Kanab, we checked in to the hotel and immediately did some “dobeying” (translation: “we washed and dried our worn clothes”). Arthur would be proud – he loved a bit of dobeying whilst on his hols!

A few hours to chill out before tea (last proper meal of the day, remember).

A quick drive up and down the Main Street, passing the place we stayed in our honeymoon, and then into an American “home cooking restaurant.

Clam chowder, followed by BBQ Ribs, and we were all “full as a bull”!

I had a bottle of Utah’s Uinta Brewing Golden Spike unfiltered Hefeweizen (4%) and boy is it unfiltered! It makes my homebrew look crystal clear! Not just cloudy, but yeast clumps floating around! Can’t say it floated my boat!

That’s been it for today. Tomorrow we head an hour and a half back up the road to Bryce Canyon, but have another night here in Kanab, so another relaxing day.

Night all!

West Coast USA – Day 6

Thought I’d treat myself to a lie-in after only getting to bed at just before midnight (astrophotographers stay up late!).

So, not sure why 3 & a bit hours later, I was trying not to wake the others, with my failed attempt to sleep. By 4am, I’d had enough and decided it was time to make up for my tardiness the sunrise before.

I was out of the door for 4:30, for a 5:32am sunrise. It’s odd, actually getting up at the time I normally start waking up at home. (I’m not a good sleeper, btw).

Bag packed, battery chargers connected, tripod (which is genuinely on its last 3 legs) stowed, and a short drive back up to Yavapai Point, where I was less than 5 hours previous.

Out of the car, and up to the viewing point, where I was amazed at the number of people that had made the effort – not too many to spoil it, but enough to remind you how much of a privilege it is to see. And everyone “got it” – it was respectfully quiet, but good spirited as well. Except for a fella from Japan who was seemingly trying to “snot-snort” the Grand Canyon in a one’r.

Speaking of the Japanese, I forgot to mention yesterday, that whilst we had a butty up at Hermits Rest, an older couple and their son, sat next to us, and got their lunch out. We were inthralled!

Plastic box, branded, and in a sealed wrap. Once open, there’s a top tray that comes out. Noodle type things go in, then some other “stuff” from various sachets, except one that Son tells Dad not to open.

Son gets water, and the unopened sachet is opened to reveal what looked like a sanitary pad. This goes in the main container, water added, the top tray is put on top, and the lid is replaced on top and snapped closed.

A few minutes later the whole contraption whistles, emits steam from a vent, and then the lid popped off under pressure, making us jump and the Japanese family laugh at us (all in good taste). Hot food on the go!

Anyway, back to today, taking sunrise photos is a technical, logistical, and artistic challenge. The scene changes by the second, and there are two ”subjects” – the view east with the sun rising over the horizon and the view west where the sunlight starts to light up the red rocks in the canyon. Exposure is changing by the second as well! All good fun.

Sunrise was well and truly done by 7am, so I headed back to see if the others were up. They were, so we packed up the car and headed to Yavapai village for breakfast.

We checked out and headed up Highway 89 towards Page. It’s about 2 1/2 hours drive in to the town, and fairly uneventful (nothing to break the journey up).

We had booked a tour of Upper Antelope Slot Canyon back in April, and we were well aware that this was the only tour that had availability for today, and weren’t intending to leave any room to screw it up. As such, we decided to go straight to Chief Tsosie’s gaff and make sure we have the correct time, as we are right on a time border (Utah being an hour ahead, and Navajo regions acknowledge summertime and also are an hour ahead).

Major faux pas to start, having called in at Antelope Canyon Tours to check our booking, to be told to go over the road to Antelope Slot Canyon Tours. Doh!

With times confirmed (5pm Arizona time) we had a few hours to explore before we could check in, so drove by the hotel on the way out to Horseshoe Bend, which is only a mile or so out of town.

Parked up, and into >38deg heat, suncreme on, water bottles filled and a 3/4 mike hike through sand, over a hill and down to the bend. Loads of people to-ing and fro-ing, so was concerned that we may not see the Horseshoe without peering over someone’s shoulder.

Turns out that although it’s busy, we still got some great views. The “Darwin Awards” were also in full swing with some “brave” people walking out on a tiny outcrop over the +1000ft sheer drop. It’s surprising that only 3-4 people per year fall to their deaths here, tbh.

The walk back was a killer as well – a long slow drag up the hill through sand and towards the searing sun, but we made it back to the car, aircon on full, and more water drunk.

We then drove out over the Glen Canyon Dam, and on to Wahweap Marina for lunch, where we picnic’d with real Road Runners (“Beep! Beep!”). They’re smaller than I expected, and not blue. Disappointing.

As we ate, we watched two or three storms come in around us, with a background rumble and lots of lightning. Wonder if our canyon trip will be cancelled?

Back to the (really nice, brand new) hotel for 3pm to check in, where we crashed out, with the exception of Jane, who’s face had gone purple, and was now feeling sick and lightheaded. A cool shower and more to drink for her!

At Antelope SLOT Canyon Tours, we were allocated to Truck 7, where our driver and guide would look after us.

The trucks had two rows of bench seating in the modified flatbed, with a sun shade over the top, and after getting strapped in, we set off through Page and then off-road across the desert flood plain to the entrance to the Slot Canyon.

It’s a small entrance (it’s actually the exit for water) to a canyon formed by flooding, that still occurs today. It’s a canyon not a cave, as it’s open to the sky albeit through a very narrow slot. This means that light “beams down” to the canyon floor and lights up the multicoloured , water-carved rocks.

Our guide was amazing! He talked everyone through how to take great photos of all of the fantastic views, along with providing some history on the canyon, it’s occupancy and almost overnight fame. He even played his Navajo pan pipes for us at the end whilst in one of the larger caverns, which sounded fantastic.

Back on the trucks into town, and although covered in a dusting of red sand, we went straight for tea (that’s tea as in the evening meal – breakfast, dinner and tea, in that order!).

We ate at Stombollis, a family run Italian that’s been going since 1982. We know that, because Jane and I ate here on our honeymoon, 25 years ago, and again with Ann & Arthur in 2000!

The food was great, the cold Flagstaff Amber Ale even better, and then back to the hotel for some sleep – we are all “happy exhausted” again, as usual!

A more chilled-out day planned tomorrow, although I do need to speak to Yosemite Park and work out what we do about it being evacuated, due to the bush fires.

Night all – see you tomorrow!

West Coast USA – Day 5

Woke at 2:30am, so snook around the room, checking camera was charged, phone charged, tripod and connectors at the ready, in advance of a 5:29am sunrise.

It’s a 30 minute walk down the trail to Yavapai Point, and I really wanted to be there 30 minutes beforehand, so a half-four set off.

Next thing I knew, it was 4:50, I’d nodded off and I was behind schedule! Bugger. A quick round up of my gear, and out the door.

As I walked through the woods to the Canyon rim, a large brown fox-like thing stood and watched me hurry by. I presume it was a fox. And not a coyote. Either way, I was too slow to get a photo, as the moment I lifted the camera he legged it.

Once at the rim, I knew I’d missed the pre-dawn sky colours, but the pictures and views I wanted to see were going to evolve over an hour or so, as the sun starts to rise and the sunlight swings down into the canyon, slowly lighting up the different layers.

Well, I got a few nice pictures, but more importantly, I was so relaxed and enjoying the moment.

Back to the lodge, and then once Jane & Charlie we’re up, we packed our day gear, went for a quick breakfast (and an abuse of the WiFi, posting yesterday’s blog), and then a drive west to the Bright Angel Lodge.

Ditched the car, a quick bit of gift shop browsing. Charlie bought himself the least sharp “baby” pen knife, but I think it was the inscription that swung it for him.

“Whos that for?” I asked. “Me”, he replied. “So why does it say ‘SEXY’ on it?”, I asked. I got a shrug and no further answers.

(Btw, it’s still “hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut” here, and still in the high 30s).

The plan was to take the bus (no cars past certain points), to Hermits Rest, at the most westerly point and then work back. We got to the bus queue though and nearly turned back to home. I reckon at one bus (70 people) per 15 mins, you were looking at at least an hours wait. No thanks!

Despite Charlie not being full of beans about the plan, we decided to take the rim trail to the next bus stop (and viewpoint), just short of a mile on. Although hot and hilly, we took it easy and got there within

20 minutes plus stoppage time for those moments when Jane & Charlie realised they had 4G!

I’ll not bore on about each of the many vantage points we stopped at. Suffice to say it’s a big hole 5000 foot deep, with some 3000ft vertical drops from the rim. It’s incredible, but words and pictures won’t convey just how incredible it is.

We got back to the car after lunch, and drove to Yavapai Point, watched an IMAX film about the canyon formation and growth of tourism, and then came back for a rest!

After a massive pizza tea, Jane & Charlie caught up on Internetty things, and I buggered off on my own to photograph the sunset, dusk and then the night sky. Nerd alert!

First thing I saw however were a group of elk, just roughing down in the evening sun. Bless ’em.

Not my best photos, as I tried mucking about with a few setting and experimenting. Some worked, some didn’t.

Must find out about the huge fire that’s burning over on the North Rim. As the sun went down, it was incredible to see how big and bright it was, given its probably 15 miles wide at that point.

On the walk back, despite it being an almost full gibbous moon (which makes deep sky astrophotography more difficult, due to its brightness), so had to be a bit more “creative” and use that to my advantage.

A keen start tomorrow, as we’ve a fair drive, and would like to see some of Lake Powell before we go and meet Navajo Chief Tsosie, who’s taking us down into Antelope Slot Canyon.

Catch you later!

West Coast USA – Day 4

Disappointed with the hotel last night, albeit “budget”. The guy who checked us in was so “un-American” with his service. Made us wait while he took a series of calls on his own mobile, and was brusque even when he eventually deigned to check us in.

The room was shabby chic without the chic, the aircon wasn’t cold enough, and the breakfast was, well, basic. Aye well, it was just one night and we’ve moved on again.

We set off around 7:30am and had a well planned route up to “GC”.

Back along Route 66, and then a left onto the 86 North. All very casual for us now! After a half hour or so, we turned off and headed around the Sunset Crater Volcano loop.

Our first stop was at a short trail which took us around a basalt lava field, the product of the volcano, that overshadowed us.

We parked up in an empty lay-by, only for the next car to park immediately next to us, making it difficult to even open the doors. In fact the berk also walked off without closing his sliding door on the side. I had our door open to get the camera out, he pressed his remote door close and his hit our door, thankfully not marking or dinting, but bloody annoying all the same.

Anyway, the trail was really cool. A huge swathe of Black lava, that had ripped up trees before solidifying. If my memory of my O Level Geography and plate tectonics section serves me well, the high basalt content makes it flow, whereas lower basalt is more rocky. Or it may be the other way around. Anyway this was sharp, pumice-like rocks, that weigh very little. A’a lava, I think?

On from there we did another, longer trail, which started from a newly redeveloped car park and trail head. A bigger lava field and literally onto the side of the volcano.

Sated with volcanoey things for one day, we moved on down the road, stopping briefly to see the “Painted Desert Vista”, another pueblo (Charlie confessed he’s “pueblo’d out, so gave that a miss), and then back on the main road towards the Grand Canyon.

The road in is long, and we’ll be driving back down it in a couple of days when we head up to Lake Powell. To break it up, we stopped at the Little Colorado River Viewing point, and gave Charlie his first take of a big canyon and drop off.

A touch of vertigo later, and down the road to the main entrance, where the “America is Beautiful”

annual pass served us proud again and got us in for nowt. To be fair, it’s $35/vehicle which is a decent price to see such a wonder.

First stop was at the Desert View Watchtower (which looks ancient, but is actually steel framed and then clad!). Charlie sat right on the edge and took it all in. Even the unflappable can be flapped at such an impressive view!

To give an idea of scale, it’s a 23 mile drive from the entrance to the main “hub” at Yavapai, and there’s another 7/8 miles further west.

We stopped at a few more views and:

a) admired the view

b) questioned people who bring dogs to a very very hot, high altitudes desert

c) watched natural selection at work as all sorts of eejits, climbed beyond the guide ropes just to get that real “on the edge” selfie.

Eventually we got to Yavapai and checked in to our family “lodge” – 2x queen beds plus a bunk bed. Done really well, and as you would expect, very ecologically/environmentally low impact where possible when catering for over 5 million visitors per year.

We had a quick meal in the restaurant (cantina, tbh), and then a mooch in the General Store. My purchase was a six pack selection of my own making of beers.

I’m writing this as I just start on an orange and tangerine-peel infused New Belgium Brewing “Citradelic” IPA at 6%, but confess that I had previously had their Voodoo Ranger, which has a picture of a skeleton in a WW II flying suit on the front. He must have crashed, to inspire the “cut pine and citrus” flavours, but given its 9%(!) ABV, was probably the reason he crashed in the first place!

We’re knackered so going to skip tonight’s sunset, but I’m aiming for “sunrise on the rim” tomorrow. Is this a theme emerging here?

Night all!

West Coast USA – Day 3

Wow! What. A. Day!

So much done. So many fabulous experiences! We even ate in a McDonalds without Golden Arches, but that’s for later!

I’m not adjusting to the time shift as much as Jane & Charlie, so still waking at 2am local time. That’s when I write these ramblings, but that suits me, the Fam’ and my own objective – I basically want to see as many sunrises and sunsets as I can over this amazing land.

This morning, I snook out on my own at around 5am with my camera and walked from our hotel through a deserted West Sedona towards Downtown and watched the sun rise over the stunning geological marvels that surround us.

Arriving back, Charlie & Jane were awake and Charlie had his customary dip. He’s decided his target is to swim in every pool at our accommodation. (He’ll kill me for uploading the photo).

Breakfast was an unusual setup, and having asked Thor (who was pool cleaning) for guidance he said to check his office window. Sure enough through his little sliding window we clouds help ourselves to pastries, fruit, yoghurts etc. So we did, and decided to leave our keys, checkout and set off somewhere more “scenic” to eat it.

With bags packed in my new arrangement (which freed up more user friendly camera storage space – these things make a difference!), we headed in to Downtown and ended up parking on a rooftop car park. Which bearing in mind it was still not 7am, was unsurprisingly deserted.

More scenic?! A car park? Yep. The views were incredible. And basically the same as the posh hotel we stayed in when last here 18 years ago with Janes Mum and Dad. We had intended to stay at L’Auberge again until we saw the prices (which when we were looking to book were £450 a night!) Bloody hell, we must have got a deal of the century last time!

From there, given nothing was open I decided that we should check out Airport Mesa, as it was less than 10 minutes away, and blimey I’m glad we did.

The short rocky hike to the summit is well worth it. 360 degree views of the surrounding landscape, and with it still being early, still had a nice warm cast to the light. If you go, for us this is a “must do”.

I happened to be wearing my City shirt, and was asked by an American, if I was Scottish “based on my accent”. I explained we are from Manchester. An Aussie then chipped in and began telling the Yank that the Jocks shirt was a soccer shirt and that we had been playing in the US this last week. In fact “Manchester” had been playing in Phoenix down the road. Plastic Man U fans get everywhere.

Having avoided pushing him off the cliff edge, but sickened by the encounter, we headed back to Downtown for just after 9am so Jane & Charlie could have a mooch in the wonderfully eclectic shops. Sedona attracts certain types of folk who believe that the surrounding rocks emanate a transcendentally mind-altering “vortex” and some of the shops appeal to those people.

Even at 9am the temperature was around 34degC and Charlie seems to be struggling today with the heat, and combined with our light breakfast, I suggested McDonalds if for no other reason to be able to say we’ve eaten in a Blue Maccy Dees.

Apparently, town planning felt the yellow of the “Golden Arches” didn’t suit the adobe colouring of much of the Sedona architecture. So they went for blue.

That over with (it was fine, but the McMuffins were still just McMuffins), we started today’s proper adventure with the Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Drive up to Flagstaff. We had hoped to stop at Slide Rock State Park, but they were queueing in the highway to get it, so we bailed on that one. Glad we did, as we saw the canyon park just a bit down the road. All I can say is it looked remarkably similar to Bolton Abbey on a May Day Bank Holiday Monday.

After a series of switchbacks and more climbing, we stopped off to look back down the valley. We remember this from our trip with Ann & Arthur in the summer of 2000. It was that trip that, combined with our honeymoon, has inspired this itinerary. We loved that holiday, but as much for their company as the scenery. We do miss them.

Back in the car and a short drive up into Flagstaff, where we drove past our hotel and onto Historic Route 66! With Chuck Berry on Spotify we trundled through Historic Downtown, and headed out onto the I40 and towards Winslow.

When we set this trip up, we had always planned to visit Meteor Crater “again”. In fact, we had even considered scattering some of Arthur’s ashes here, because he had put it as a “must do” on the 2000 trip. Last time however, we arrived at the gates to be told that it was closing and got turned away! We were all gutted. None more so than Arthur. Legal and logistical reasons meant we didn’t scatter ashes, but we do think we’ve closed that loop for him.

We got there in plenty of time this trip! Enough time in fact for “Larry” to invite us on a “guided rim tour”!

Any photos we take won’t do it justice (as is the case for most of these “big views”). To give scale it’s as deep as a 66 storey building and if you look at the white patch in the centre that’s a mine shaft area the size of a football pitch. With a telescope, you can make out a 6’6” astronaut suit.

After our “rimming”, due to the intense heat, we headed inside to watch a short but interesting film on its formation, but mainly because of the air conditioning tbh.

We also got to stroke the largest remaining piece of the asteroid, that weighs over a tonne and is valued at $3-5mil.

As we watched on, storm clouds rolled in and we began to see downpours, thunder and lightning, and having seen and done everything at the Barringer, we headed back to Flagstaff. I had intended to drive the extra 50min round trip just to see who the girl in a flatbed Ford was looking at that was “standin’ on the corner in Winslow, Arizona”. But I didn’t.

Hotel. Rude reception. Bad mood. Chilled for an hour.

Then went to the Texas Chainsaw Whorehouse Grill (its not actually called that, that’s a nickname from our Florida hols), and despite missing our usual partners in crime, did “the usual” and had a great steak, left more food than we ate, paid, and came back to the hotel.

Must mention that when Jane ordered her Sangria Margarita, the waitress asked her for ID. Doesn’t surprise me, even though I know she’s quite a bit older than 21! Whilst I won’t reveal her age, the reasons for this big trip are the fact it’s our 25th wedding anniversary, and that Janes next birthday has a zero at the end.

Jane and Charlie crashed out, but I had another revisit to do, so back in the car and off up the big hill to Lowell Observatory. Had a fabulous geeky couple of hours up there, watching satellites go by, looking at Saturn, Jupiter, Pluto and the Moon.

Back down the hill, and crashed out with the rest of them. Grand Canyon tomorrow and a nice double stopover, so a driving break for me.

Oh, by the way, we love the car, it’s brilliant! We are quite glad fuel is relatively cheap here though!

Ouch!

See you at the big hole, tomorrow!

West Coast USA – Day 2

As anticipated, the -8h time difference combined with an effective bedtime of 6:30am meant we’re shattered but up and about early.

A general sort out of the car, now that we’ve seen it in daylight, means all manner of mobile electrical goods are being charged simultaneously! We’ve even brought a fridge with us for the car!

The car is ace. It’s massive, and stuffed to the gunnels with gadgets. Bearing in mind we have over 2,500 miles to drive, it was really important to us that we got something we liked.

After a quick dip in the pool by Charlie, and then breakfast, we checked out and set off north towards Camp Verde.

After an hour or so, Charlie wanted some help setting up the SLR camera he’s using this hols, so I too a turnoff and we called briefly at Sunset View just off Interstate 12 (pointless given it was about 9am).They want you to know not to stray off track, that’s for sure!

Back on the road, up to Camp Verde and we then realised that we’d left all of our guide books at home, so had no idea what order to try and do things in.

So we ended up going to see the Tuzigoot National Monument, because it was the first thing up on the satnav! Turned out to be pretty good actually and we saved the $30 entry by spending $80…on an annual Discover America National Parks pass, which now gets all of in into any Park for free for a year!

Saw a creosote bush there, and it does smell of Cheadle fencing panels! Even got an oily look to it!

Overheard the Park Ranger giving advice to a Dutch couple and recommending to go to Montezumas Well, and then follow an off-road track to a cut-through to “V bar V Ranch”. Sounded intriguing so we headed in the same direction.

It was boiling though! It’s been around 37deg C from very early on today so the aircon has been working hard! Then we discovered the most amazing of the cars gadgets – a ball-blower! Yep, the seats are airconned and can blow cold air up your chuffer to cool the nether regions! Happy days as we cross-countries our way towards Rimrock.

Montezumas Well is a massive arsenic-laden, limestone sinkhole from which the indigenous Yavapai people believe they all emerged from, hence its sacred status.

They have taken the same approach as Sunset Point, and remind you that deadly scorpions and rattlesnakes live in the undergrowth. We stuck to the path and walked to 113 steps down and back to see the outflow point and the cave dwellings.

Back in the car, and some funky off-roading for around 4-5 miles and then we ended up at the V Bar V.

I had my hopes on some good cold American IPA. Turns out it’s a couple of mile hike (“an easy half-mile walk” in reality) to see a wall of petroglyphs.

Despite the distinct lack of a Bar at V Bar V, we did the walk in to the petroglyphs. Which were amazing! Pictures won’t do them justice, but the lady that talked us through them, and explained the meanings was brilliant at her job.

At around 800 years old, the symbols were “picked” into the rock, rather than painted (pictographs) by the Sinagua tribes. The amazing bit is the large rock sticking out that casts a shadow on the cliff wall. It’s a solar timepiece and the shadow endpoint has been “picked” into the rock to mark times and season changes. Very cool.

After that an a bit more off-roading, with the heat still building, we headed in to Sedona from the south. Although I’ve been lucky enough to have been here before, the landscape is breathtaking! Bell Rock, Cathederal Rock, the Church, are all well known landmarks that inspire, and humble at the same time. And rightly so. That said, it didn’t stop us humming the Disney Pixar “Cars” theme tune, mind.

We’re staying at a “quaint” budget motel tonight. Parked up, we went to the reception window(!) and we’re checked in by a very pleasant, man-mountain of a fella!

“Hi, folks. My name’s Thor. Welcome to our place.” he said casually. Fine by me. At that size I’ll call him anything he wants!

The tiredness is catching up with us and so after a quick unload (we brought our luggage in as well), we nipped across the road, and stocked up with gallons of water and a load of nachos and crisps.

All we fancied eating was a sandwich so Subway take out in the motel room, and we’re all nodding off!

Tomorrow is just a short trip north to Flagstaff and then Route 66, towards Winslow, to do something for Janes Dad, bless him.

See you tomorrow!

West Coast USA – Day 1

It was an early start (for Aireys) with the taxi arriving 6:15, about 10 mins after Charlie got out of his pit, and about 6 hours after I packed.

Got to Manchester T3 without any issues thankfully, ditched the bags, got body-scanned and made our way the the Escape Lounge (a little surprise treat from me) for decent WiFi and complementary food & drink. A very pleasant 2 1/2 hours watching two people play Pokemon, – something I’ve been warned will be a theme!

Flight was bang on time and a quick Airbus A319 hop to Heathrow T3, followed by a transfer to T5 where “shop mooching” was completed before going to the Club Aspire Lounge for more chill out. We had 3 1/2 hours to kill, so it was worth it, although food, environment and service weren’t a patch on Manchester.

Needless to say the gate was a good half mile from the lounge, so there was a bit of mild panic hearing final boarding announcements, but thankfully everyone else was in the same boat so we just ended up joining a long boarding queue at the gate.

Pushback on our BA 747-400 was about 5 minutes behind but that was easily made up in the flight.

That moment 6 hours in, when you realise you’ve over 4 more to go – ugh! Otherwise, the flight was relatively uneventful apart from suddenly being accosted by the young lady sat directly behind me, who began apologising profusely for moving my chair backrest when she got up or moved.

Through a fog of 9 vodka shots and two bottles of wine, (proudly announced by her 8 yr old daughter), she offered to make it up to me, because she “gives massages” in her home town of Leeds, and either I or Jane were welcome to a “freebie” right there on the aircraft. Tempting as it was, we both gracefully declined.

Phoenix finally turned up under the starboard wing and we landed at 5:31pm local (1:31am UK), to be greeted by 37 degree Celsius heat, giant cacti, and a very laid back airport.

Got through airport without any hassle, and then time for the “big one”, the bit that could make or break the hols – the car hire pickup. Pleased to say that went very well & Charlie now thinks he’s some sort of “Gangsta VIP” (pics to follow).

A half hour drive north to Scottsdale and we checked in to the Gainey Suites Hotel. Told where to park to gain shortest bag haul to room, and made our way to the room, having dodged the dog crap in the entrance corridor!

This shouldn’t be viewed as a poor reflection on the hotel (with Jane being somewhat of an expert, I was advised it was “fresh”) but what sort of dog owner would allow that to happen & not clean it up, especially given there can’t be that many dogs in the hotel? Beyond belief!

It’s a nice courtyard/pool-view suite, with a separate bedroom & ensuite, so Charlie gets the put-up in the lounge diner.

As I started to write this, it’s 2:51am local & 31deg C, with forecast highs of 43. It’s still pitch black with a glorious “dark sky” starry night, and Jane and Charlie still zonked out.

I suspect this will be an early breakfast, before we pack the car, get organised with luggage, stock up on water, snacks and the like and then begin our short, scenic drive north, up to the red rocks of Sedona!

Bye for now!