Norfolk and Dun – Day 5 (The Last Day)

Last full day! Not even a week! All the way here and it’s available longer! Why? Turns out it’s because I can be a grump. Apparently I was so bothered by the time off my little job that I said only book til the Thursday. What a chump!

Another slow start but this time after a 45 minute call to screen me for a 5 year long clinical trial that I’m happy to participate in. I just need to be alive in 5 years!

We thought we’d be going back to the Suffield Arms for more tapas but it’s fully booked! Good for them! Not so for us. So before we set off, we decided to book somewhere and then work around it. We’ve dun our research and listed our potential dog-friendly pub grub places, and we also have a love of the marshland areas, so are once again heading back towards Cley (pronounced Cl-eye).

Gloomy start to the day but still dry at least.

One of the main reasons for our choice of holiday destinations this year is to do with our dog, Toby. He turned 11 years old a few weeks ago and it brought home to us how lucky we are to have him. Because of that we decided that this year we would plan holidays for him and we would fit around them. I think we’ve done a good job of sorting that out.

What a life!

Especially these last few days of being on the pebble beaches. He’s loved it!

We sorted the van, packed up what little we need for the day (basically Tobys tea, lead and some water for him to drink).

As we were just about to leave, our host Caralyn who lives in the cottage next door, bobbed her head around and said hello. She’s lovely. Had a good chat and made it very clear that when we next come to Norfolk we will look to stay with her again, as The Boathouse is brilliant. Really well furnished, and in a great location for getting all over the area. I would recommend this place without a doubt!

We said our goodbyes for the day and headed the 25 minutes up the road to Cley & Salthouse Marshes Visitor Centre, just on the outskirts of Cley village.

Cley Visitor Centre

Although the main centre (a cafe) and the hides within the reserve don’t allow dogs, we did have a look around the rest of the Visitor Centre, art exhibition, played with a few spotting scopes that Cley Spy had set up to demo (and spotted a few Spoonbills), and had a quick browse of the gift shop.

We jumped back in the van and headed to one of only three paths that were dog-friendly, and we’d already been to two of them! We went back to Cley beach but parked in a lay-by about half way down the road to avoid the £4 car park fee.

Crashing waves

The walk across the tops of the flood walls is well worth it anyway and gives a good view of the marshes and a great opportunity to bird spot.

This time our ‘prize’ was seeing an Eurasian Hobby, after the earlier sighting of the Spoonbills.

We had a stroll down the beach and then just sat and relaxed to the sound of the crashing waves.

Bit busy.

Before we knew it, it was time to set off to the pub we’d ended up booking for some tea. The Dun Cow in Salthouse has a really good reputation so it was a no-brainer.

Dun Cow

The menu and special all sounded good so we opted for a potted crab with sourdough as a shared starter which was delicious.

Potted crab somewhere below the pickles

Jane ordered the “Vegetarian Ploughman’s Platter with homemade tart, white lady & Mrs Temples vintage Walsingham cheese, pickles, mixed salad and toasted sourdough”.

Cheesy

I however went for one of the specials, the Seafood Platter – Crayfish Cocktail , Crab Mix, Shell-on Prawns, Smoked Salmon, leaf salad and toasted sourdough.

Yum!

Bloody lovely! So nice that we even shared a dessert of a baked cheesecake, and we don’t usually do desserts!

We left and got back in the van. I’d parked on a very potholed lay-by so when I released the handbrake the van rolled backwards a few inches. Turns out that the 600cc Suzuki sports bike was less than that behind me & my towbar must have nudged the bike because as we set off, the fella in the BT van waved at us and pointed back at the bike, now horizontal on its side. I was mortified! I’d not felt or heard anything, so much so I wondered if it had just fallen over as it was on its side stand and on very uneven ground. But too coincidental for me.

Either way, I’m happy to take responsibility, so I went in the pub looking for folk with helmets. I found two fellas in the beer garden in race leathers so approached them, asked who’s was the blue Suzuki and then told them what happened. He was calm and respectful and we all went out to see the bike, assess any damage and work out what I needed to do.

The bike was a beast of a machine and took three of us to get it back upright. Thankfully there were only some minor scuffs on the crank case and similar on the left mirror. I offered my details and explained I’d pay for the repair. Fair play to the guy, he just shook my hand thanked me for my honesty and said he’d sort it and for me not to worry. There are good people in the world!

Panic over, we headed down the road to the only remaining dog-friendly path to the beach, this one being on the eastern side of Salthouse Marshes. Basically we did the same as at the last place, meandered then sat on the shingles watching the clouds roll by, whilst Toby rolled in the pebbles!

Happy boy!

Eventually, as we both found ourselves yawning, we headed back to the van and thankfully uneventfully, headed back to The Boathouse for our final evening.

Tomorrow we will strip the beds, pack and load the van, check out and head home via CleySpy (because I want a new strap and some Len’s protection for the Zeiss binoculars).

We are all sat or lay here yawning and nodding off, so I’ll wrap up this series of blogs by thanking those that read them and wishing you folks good health and happiness!

Until the next time!

X

Norfolk and Whey – Day 4

(Cheese is today’s tenuous link to the title, but only right at the end and it’s a leap of faith for which I apologise).

We were tired last night (old man Toby especially so). We survived the lovely gaff we’re staying in until close to 11pm before calling it a day & going to bed.

Turns out we have switched off mentally. Even Toby had a lie-in and we only really got going at about 11:30. Riddled with zero guilt, we then had a light toast-based breakfast and  even crocheted (I left that to Jane) for half an hour before sorting ourselves out and making a very loose plan for the day.

If you’ve suffered these blogs before then you’ll know there’s at least one where it’s ‘padding’. Thing is, for us, it’s us at our best, our most together, most ‘us’. We do the stuff we really like.

We decided to get all Pet Shop Boys and “Go West” as far as we intend before coming home in a couple of days and headed to Wells (“Next The Sea”) or WNTS as it will be known as.

Not 100% sure why, other than we are trying to work out where a past memory was actually created. 

Charlie as a little ‘un. Bought a crab like and bucket & some bait. A harbour wall with shops very close to it. A lighthouse or RNLI something on the left. Ice creams, tat shops behind us. I thought there was a harbour wall that curled around from the right to enclose it but suspect I’m thinking of somewhere in Pembrokeshire.

I had a vision. This is it. I’m fairly confident.

“This is the place”. Mite rite a Poem about it!

What I absolutely do remember about it is that we packed up, enjoyed our holiday and came home. But about 3 months later I discovered the crab bait in a bag, in a bucket, in a cupboard, in the camper van (why we sold it probably).

Jane’s not so sure even after my visuals.

Well, we got there (45mins) and went all the way in and parked at the “most dog friendly cafe in the UK, or the south east or Norfolk). It does seem to earn its name despite my sarcasm! Puppuchinos, water, sticks and toys to play with. What’s not to like if your a dog (or immature like me)!

The rest of the headland is “dogs not allowed” though when you go beyond and head to the beach.

Here’s the crunch. It’s for a very good reason. All along these beaches and marshland beyond, there are amazing birds and other wildlife that are laying eggs/bringing up offspring. They need peace and time to hunt, gather, fend off natural predators.

Dogs are fab, miles better than many hoomans. But they do like to nosey, if not controlled. If mam and dad flee a nest to shoo away a well-meaning doggo, there’s a good chance a harrier or stoat nips in and then there’s a slight imbalance in the ecosystem. They compile and sometimes become big. So dogs on leads and don’t moan if you can’t stomp through a nature reserve at time a of the year. Public Service Announcement over!

There’s a Lifeboat Station at the end of the headland and it’s pretty slick and new. Built in 2022 (I think) it has some fancy stuff going on! RNLI 13-46 is stationed there (I know because I read it off my photo), and it’s a steep exit into a very challenging tidal mess, so big up to them!

Might want to move.

When it arrives back from its heroics, there’s an equally impressive bit of kit that sets it back in place to go again. Some massive four-track thing that has a humongous engine that it’s happy to flip a peek to, if you ask nicely & don’t touch, of course.

Recovery System

The non-dog-friendly beach meant we accepted that fact and instead walked down the headland path back to WNTS.

It’s another birdie-brilliant walk if you look. Jane being the best at this, she had the ‘bins and I had the camera with a long lens on. Nothing mega, but we did see loads of exceptionally young fluffy birds looking awkward whilst waiting for parents to bring them food.

Babba gulls

At the end, we nipped into Two Magpies Bakery and Jane bought an enormous croque monsieur, whilst I remained outside dealing with a separation-anxiety laden Toby & an older-than-me bohemian couple with two dogs that had muzzles and strong harnesses on. They held a very pleasant conversation with me, whilst I kept taking Tobes out of the Black Labs firing line. (Shots were fired, so I was on edge).

Turns out the Two Magpies forgot to reheat the crocque so it took ages. We’d only paid the £4 for 2h, rather the £8 for 6, so we were then on the clock to get back.

Oysters anyone?

Lovely crunchy bread, nice cheese but that ham was very salty for me. Binned some off partly down to salt, mainly down to the walk back and definitely because you can’t feed the seagulls. (Don’t fiddle with ecosystems folks and then wonder why you don’t see sparrows, but you do see seagulls parakeets in south Manchester).

Pied wagtail

Jane and Toby meandered back. I tried to do so but with gusto. It didn’t work. My arthritic knees just complained. But we did get in the van at 16:02, so we’re only 2 minutes late. I’ll probably still get a ticket though.

From there we had an even better plan than the non-plan we came up with at the beginning of the day. Drive the coast towards our accommodation and stop if we see nice things. A kind of non-non-plan.

I set off. We got to Cley and remembered the smokehouse & a windmill. So we stopped. Parked up, and “straight to the smokehouse as it was close to closing”.

So we went to have a look in a nice art gallery shop before looking in ‘Made In Cley’ windows and watching people actually throw pots on a wheel that they then end up selling in the same place.

Public footpath.

Oh, smokehouse! So Jane went in whilst I restrained the dog that thinks ‘if I can’t see his mum he’s been abandoned for life’. Jane just bought loads of smoked stuff in a make-your-own-platter type way. 

Beautiful.

We did then head home without further distraction.

Back to our lovely AirBnB, we unpacked today’s purchases, fed Toby, and then tea got laid out on the table so that we could plough our own furrow through the eclectic gathering of (some cheesy) comestibles on show.

Fab!

The evening was lovely and we were back at 6:30ish, so by the time we finished phase 1 of tea it was around 8pm.

Phase 1

I’d been eating outside on the patio table, whilst Jane was inside on the sofa in front of the patio doors. 

Pigeon, prawn, salmon & crab patê

Jane was telling and asking loads. My crap hearing obscured by the door meant I kept asking her to repeat. It eventually went quiet and I felt a bit ignorant. 

I went inside to apologise.

Toby was full-length laid out asleep on a throw on couch number 2, where I’ve sat. Jane was (& still is as I write this) fast asleep on couch number 1. I do love her.

Salty Sea Doggo.

So, it’s 9pm. Jane’s asleep. Toby has gone to bed. I’m not that far away from thinking it’s a good idea as well, so on this very happy and relaxed note, that was today!

Much love & thanks to those that read this nonsense, as always it’s written to help me be present. Which is a good thing & worth a try.

Take care & be kind

x

Norfolk and Less – Day 3

We are now just a “two plus doggo”, for the remainder of our little trip down here, but we made the very most of the day with our friends in the best way we all wanted to.

We all slept well. We all had a lie-in. We all just chilled out and had a “picky breakfast” of stuff we could eat that we had in the fridge or ‘to hand’.

That meant Italian cured meats, smoked and blue cheeses, wild strawberry jam, toast, grapes & yoghurts. With a good cup of tea!

Archie 🩵

The dogs were fed (dog food as well as bits of a continental cheesy, yoghurt-liddy treat), and our friends packed, and we loaded up the van for our day trip out, as our friends packed for a return home.

It’s only a 15 minute easy drive into Cromer, so to make the most of the day, we parked up at the long stay parking at the top of the cliffs and then all walked down to the pier & beach front.

A pier. Which falls down a lot over a few hundred years

When we left the pier after a mooch about, I was pleased to survive given I’d read the wallboard history timeline and is doesn’t suggest longevity!  I did find out that it was the same pier that was used in the closing act of ‘Alan Partridge Alpha Papa’. 

We then meandered up into the narrow streets of the little town, stopping at art galleries, craft shops and the Wildcraft Brewery Tap (which has a dog-friendly menu, btw, so kudos for that!).

Wildcraft Brewery Tap (cans were bought)

We found Davies Fish Shop and bought 4 dressed (I wasn’t expecting them to be dressed as clowns, tbf) Cromer crabs and a pot of fresh mussels, before nipping back down the road to get a couple of bags of chips and parking ourselves up on benches in front of the very grandiose 1830s Hotel De Paris, designed by the “Gaudi of Norwich”, George Skipper.

Hotel De Paris
Dressed Cromer crab, mussels & chips. Heaven!

Good food was had, more nattering and laughing (a more or less constant whenever we meet), before it was time to wander back up to the car park and say goodbye to our wonderful friends & their absolutely gorgeous doggo, Archie.

Our parking time was up as well so we decided to head west along the coast and reacquaint ourselves with the area. We were last here on hols back about 16 years ago (based on Lurchio being definitely about 3 or 4 years old at the time).

We stopped and had a walk around Sheringham before moving further along the coast and all the way though Weybourne, Salthouse, Cley by the Sea and Blakeney, before turning around and heading back to find somewhere to have a stroll over the Cley and Salthouse Marshes & see if we could spot any decent birdlife.

Salthouse Marsh from the Hide

A little lay-by was found and we fed Toby, before heading along a die-straight walkway towards the beach with our posh binoculars (thanks to Jane’s dad, we have some fancy Zeiss 10x40s and some Leica pocket ‘spotters’).

We shouldn’t have worried about spotting anything, as we had birdlife galore! By the time we got to the bird hide, we had already seen Little Egrets, Pied Avocets, lapwings, swallows, terns, shelduck, redshank and swans, so to see Egyptian Geese and an actively hunting Western Marsh Harrier on our way back was an absolute Brucey-bonus!

Western Marsh Harrier, I promise!

We headed back to the van and it was about time for some tea (food, eaten circa 5-7pm, to be clear).

On the way back we called in to The Ship Inn in Weybourne which looked lovely and has great reviews. Sadly they didn’t have a table so we headed towards home via the coast road, before spotting ‘The Village Inn’ in West Runton.

The Village Inn, West Runton

We headed inside and this time our luck was in as there was a table for two next to the bar, and we were 30 minutes away from last food orders.

Jane was delighted to find out that the ‘Soup du Jour’ was cauliflower, fennel & apple, with Cauliflower being one of her favourite veggies. So her order was easy – that with skinny chips. I went for the Korean style chicken burger, with kimchi, salt & pepper chips.

Korean Kimchi Chicken Burger!

We finished up a very enjoyable meal & headed the shortish journey back to  our accommodation in The Boat House, where Jane, Toby and I all just crashed out, albeit only after we realised my head and face were so sunburned, I looked like ‘Jerry The Berry’! 

Ay well! Another great day was had! So now on, to tomorrows adventure!

x

Norfolk and Good – Day 1 & 2

We (I’ll detail shortly) are now in North Norfolk!

I finished a 5 day stretch of work on Monday, which for a knackered old fella like me, in the 33+ C was a blessing! My grade-4 osteoarthritic knees are being given a well-deserved rest!

During which time, Jane had managed to trip on the back doorstep, fall and land cheek and eyebrow first onto the tarmac! Thankfully that cushioned her knee, wrist and knuckles which then hit the ground, copied her forehead and bled profusely.

Over the remaining few days at home, I did get used to the looks and questioning of Jane, and I’m genuinely pleased that the lady at Boots who assisted in finding suitable steristrips did take her aside and ask if she was “ok or needed help”. 

But come Friday lunchtime when Jane finished work, we packed the van up and then battled with our usual foe – selfish people picking up their kids from Thorn Grove School, who seem to think it’s ok to park across our driveway.

Selfish.

Once defeated, we headed down the M6 and across the A14 to the M11, and A120 to a little village in Essex where our wonderful friends live in a beautiful old wonky house.

Not too much detail to add here as this is a couple of days enjoying each others company, chatting, eating and supping beer & nice wine. All in a very laid-back way.

After a very hearty Full-English, a tour of the new buildings and a dog-walk, us two chaps headedover to Nethergate Brewery & Tap room for a 2pm brewery tour (pre-arranged & presented by said friends, who know me very well!). We went in the 1971 convertible MGB, top down and the half hour journey was brilliant – zipping through windy country lanes.

Little MGB

There were 8 of us on the tour, hosted by Victoria from Nethergate, who introduced us to the history of the brewery and its growth and moves across three sites to the currently-being expanded site. We supped a couple of halves of their core range before the tour and then ‘quite a bit more after’.

It’s big!

So much so that our ride there in a fab little 1970 MGB, had to be hastily re-organised and our respective partners came and picked us up and drove our van and the MG home.

We did meander home via some quaint little villages and a pub, of course!

At home, we had a takeaway Thai banquet and readied ourselves for the inbound boredom of a pointless Third/Fourth place World Cup game. Suffice to say it over delivered with England holding out after a 4-0 first half to beat France 6-4!

The morning after was a sedate and very healthy breakfast before a drive north through Suffolk and up to Norfolk.

We stopped off at Snape Maltings on the bank of the River Alde, home to independent shops, galleries, a restaurant and dog-friendly café and famed for its concert hall.

The concert hall

We mooched, bought & ate, before heading further north to Aldeburgh and a stroll along its steep, pebbled beach for a leg stretch and some fresh air. In the meantime, we had booked a 7:45 table at a dog-friendly restaurant that’s only 7 minutes from where we will stay. Yea, I know! The Workd Cup Final starts at 8pm, but we have our priorities!

Beachy

We stopped for swift half in a very nice pub, the Cross Keys, and another chinwag before we all realised that even if we drove straight to the pub, we’d be almost half an hour late!

There followed a “Panic drive” made significantly worse by most of the area being dug up for new road infrastructure to support the Sizewell C Power plant. It was chaos and stress for the first half hour of the 1h45m drive!

We did end up heading straight to the Suffield Arms (having called them to explain and apologise).

Tapas and Telly!

What a fantastic evening! The Mediterranean tapas and Josper-cooked (a high-end, Spanish-made hybrid oven/charcoal) grill were superb, as was the service, their very dog-friendly attitude, the building & decor, and the big TV that we could keep an eye on through the first 90 minutes.

Food was amazing!

We then headed the short jaunt to our AirBnB home for the next few days where we watched the Torres goal that won Spain the World Cup. 

Headed downstairs?

Speaking of cups, it was cups of tea all ‘round, before crashing out ready for tomorrow!

X