A really strange day today. We are now at Mammoth Lakes, where we had intended to get the chair-lifts up to the top, so we could admire the views and also say we went from 282ft below sea level to 11,030ft above, within 4 hours of driving.
But we haven’t done the chair-lifts. We’ll have to settle for 9,260ft above sea level!
Today is a day of “n’ts”. We didn’t see the USAF topgunning their way down Rainbow Canyon. We drove almost 200 miles and haven’t had to make more than 4 turns. We didn’t get to enjoy the views beyond Lone Pine, or into Mammoth, and we aren’t now going to stay at, or pass through Yosemite.
The fires have spread. There are fires near here in Mammoth (we’re not in any danger, mind), and the Yosemite fires have extended into the Valley, so they have therefore had to close the Park and all of the roads in and out to the west. This means we are on the fall-back plan of our fall-back plan. With no alternative but to go “over the top” via the 108 and skip north of the Tioga Pass, this means that we needed to find accommodation somewhere between here and Monterey, which is now a 7 hour drive away.
Bugger it! Rather than stay a day somewhere unplanned and unknown just to break a journey up, we have all decided to book yet another night in our fancy hotel in Monterey (3, now), and just smash the drive in a one-er. Well, I’m sure we may call in to a few beauty spots through Stanislaus National Forest, or in the preserved 49’er “goldrush” town of Columbia, California.
So last night, after posting the blog, and as Jane & Charlie settled down for the night, I grabbed my camera & tripod (still on its last three legs, held together with hair bands), and went out onto the golf course, dodging the sprinklers as I went. Which is a lot harder that you may think, given that, save for the light from the bedrooms, its almost pitch black. These are some of the darkest skies on the planet. Almost no light pollution at the Ranch and none, if you’re brave enough to venture out into the vast, desert space.
Which the chap from Southampton that I got chatting to (another night sky photographer) had done. However, he admitted he didn’t last long. He’d parked up, and used his phone to pick a route through the rattlesnakes, scorpions and black widow spiders (did I mention those before?), into the scrub. Settling down, after setting up his (very stable) tripod that wasn’t on its last three legs, and his ultra-fast, ultra-wide angle lens, he said he felt “watched”. He then heard movement, which made him turn, only to end up looking at a pack of Coyote, who were presumably wondering what ISO setting he was proposing to use.
Due to his lens, his “proof” photo was a pointless exercise, but I’m convinced this happened. Partly because, I’m also convinced that when I was trying to take those pre-dawn photos, out of the corner of my eye, I saw a large dog-like thing, run across the golf course. They are around, that’s for sure.
We chatted about the footy (he was up until recently a S’hampton season ticket holder), and how Raheem Sterlings late winner for Manchester City made it an outstanding game. We chatted about the photography, and how much he learned on a specialist start photography course. The trick is to set your ISO up at 6400+, and keep shutter speeds to <30secs, if you’re interested. We also chatted about our respective holidays and how he was having to sneak out to take his photos, whilst his offspring just moaned about how crap the wifi is and that YouTube is just “soooo laggy!”. Sounds familiar!
A reasonable start for us this morning, and we were packed, out of the room, and checked out of our accommodation well before 9:30am. After a debate, we decided to give the canteen another go. We chose well, ordering bagels with Philadelphia, and I had toast and a portion of scrambled egg. No grease, half the price (not quite), job done!
We then began the eeriest of journeys. The 204-mile journey has three directions on TomTom Drive:
- Drive 103 miles down Route 190
- Turn Right onto the US-395 and drive for 98 miles
- Turn off and take CA-203 along Main Street for 3 miles. You have reached your destination!
Despite me filling up our gas-guzzler at the fateful Vegas Wallmart, we only had a half tank, so needed to be careful with refuelling. Not so easy when they’re 70+ miles apart.
On the way in to Death Valley, regular 87ron unleaded was just under $3/gallon. At Furnace Creek, it was just short of $5. I pressed on in the vain hope that I could make Lone Pine and that it would be cheaper. Wrong on both counts. We ended up doing a $40 “splash and dash” at Panamint, at $4,90/gal.
The drive so far had been…well, dull tbh. It was hazy, so the views weren’t so good, and it was pretty dull driving.
Until we dropped onto the downhill part leading to the Panamint Dry Lake crossing. We stopped and got out, despite the heat.
It was actually one of our highlights. Miles and miles and miles in every direction and for about 10 minutes, it was just us three.
What a place! With more time, this would be a stunning place to take a sunrise or sunset photo, and I bet the astro stuff would be pretty funky as well!
Onwards and upwards, literally. Even getting out of Death Valley, you jump to over 4,000ft.
Sadly, Maverick and Goose weren’t flying today, so we pressed on. Having passed through Lone Pine, the journey got more “eerie”, with the haze now taking on a “browny” tinge. It was smoke.
And that sums up the remaining 150 or so miles. Smoke-obscured views.
Entering Mammoth 2 hours before check-in, we drove up the mountain, didn’t do the ski-lift, and drove part-way down and across to Mammoth Lakes, where we stopped to get out and admire the view. We didn’t do that either! This time yesterday, we were in 54°C heat. It was now 19°C and windy. We all changed into warmer clothes!
The light, the weather, the air. All very screwed up!
We checked in to the Shilo Inn, which is pricey for what it is, but you’re paying to be in one of the best outdoor adrenalin-junkie playgrounds, with ski-lifts everywhere being used to ferry full-suspension downhill mountain bikes and their brave pilots up to the top. Where they then saddle up and then descend the “Kamikaze” downhill trail. Would love to have a go, one day!
Now with internet, we checked the latest on Yosemite, and as we had anticipated, it was buggered. No way to get in to the valley from east or west. I must be honest and say that despite acknowledging that it is an ever-changing situation, the communication from Yosemite Accommodation has been diabolical. As in non-existent.
I phoned them to check the official score (even having already booked that extra, extra night in Monterey). I explained we had previously cancelled the second of two nights, and that we were checking about tomorrow. She checked my booking reference, and then told me that the first night had been automatically cancelled due to the fire. Nice, but no one had told me that. After prodding, she did confirm that a refund would be issued in full but couldn’t say when. More paperwork to check & cross reference when we get home!
Sorted, of sorts, we then headed out for something to eat. Jane was “starving” and fancied a well-recommended Mexican. Robertos Café was a short walk from the hotel. During which, I became short of breath and began coughing. This because the air has ash in it. You can see it falling and swirling in the pretty strong wind.
A “mammoth” portion for each of us, in between Pokemoning(!) and a view of the sun, that was pre-apocalyptic, before the quick walk back to the hotel.
It really is quite sad, seeing Mammoth in such weather – it must be really affecting the hiking, trailing, biking & climbing scene here.
A long day tomorrow, but all in a good cause! Disappointed we’re not going to see Yosemite again, of course, but thrilled to have three days in and around Monterey.
An early night for us all tonight!
Catch you tomorrow!